Learn the Secret to Making Perfect Birria, According to Chef Claudette Zepeda

One of the most popular recipes we've published is chef Claudette Zepeda's Birria Tacos. Zepeda will demonstrate how to prepare this meaty, savory recipe at the inaugural Food & Wine Classic in Charleston September 27 to 29, Zepeda demonstrated just how versatile the dish is, forgoing the usual tacos and stuffing the birria meat into soft, pillowy bao.

No matter the vehicle you choose for your birria, the most important component is the chiles in the adobo. Zepeda's recipe calls for ancho, guajillo, and cascabel chiles, all stemmed and seeded, but you can play around with the proportions, she notes. Customizing the types of chiles allows you to tailor the dish to your heat and flavor preferences.

Guajillo, she notes, is not super spicy, so use more guajillo than ancho if you prefer less heat. "Guajillo is the chile of chiles," she says. "You could even use all guajillo if you wanted. You can really customize this dish to your family's liking."

In Zepeda's family, cascabel is a non-negotiable. "My mom says cascabel is the most important chile to use in birria," she says, adding, "Whatever Mom says, we do. I don't question it."

To prepare the adobo, start by toasting and then boiling the chiles. The most crucial thing to remember when making the sauce is not to overboil the chilies, which turns them bitter. Zepeda says this is the most common mistake people make when preparing birria.

Another mistake to avoid: Don't throw away your cilantro stems! Include them chopped up with the leaves in your garnish to get the maximum flavor from the herb. Keep these tips in mind and you'll be well on your way to executing birria like a pro.