![Dungeness Crab Fried Rice](https://cdn.statically.io/img/www.foodandwine.com/thmb/NV3I230dqhnONmdXvFl1pM8Fbdw=/1500x0/filters:no_upscale():max_bytes(150000):strip_icc()/Dungeness-Crab-Fried-Rice-FT-RECIPE1223-743d51f1a8004f06bba39742c665c25a.jpg)
Victor Protasio / Food Styling by Margaret Monroe Dickey / Prop Styling by Christine Keely
During Dungeness crab season, chef Intu-on Kornnawong at Jo’s Modern Thai takes crab fried rice to a new level by using as much of the crab as possible and saving the top shell for a striking serving vessel.
Here, the aromatic poaching liquid infuses the crabmeat with citrusy makrut lime leaves and floral lemongrass. When breaking down the crab, make sure to use a seafood fork to coax out the crabmeat. You can use a seafood cracker to extract meat from the legs and claws. Once all the crabmeat is collected, check for any remaining shells and discard.
This fried rice boasts a wonderful mix of flavors and textures and leans mostly savory with the soy sauce, seasoning sauce, garlic, and hint of fish sauce coming through. The sugar offers a slightly sweet note, as do the chunks of delicate crabmeat that stud the fragrant rice.
Kornnawong serves the dish with prik nam pla (Thai dipping sauce), a popular spicy, salty, and sweet condiment that reinforces the fried rice’s umami flavors.
Frequently asked questions
What is lemongrass?
Lemongrass is a plant known for its fragrant leaves and stalks that are used in a variety of preparations, from Lemongrass Pork and Rice Noodle Bowl to Cornish Hen Stew with Lemongrass and Chiles. The perennial plants grow several stiff stems with slender leaves that, when crushed, cut, or bruised, give off a citrusy, lemon verbena-like fragrance. Lemongrass is quite fibrous and so should be either finely chopped or grated. If using a large section of lemongrass to infuse a dish with flavor, remove the lemongrass before serving, as you would a bay leaf. To use lemongrass, chop off the bottom 1/2 inch of each leaf; trim the woody, green top portion; and discard (or reserve to make tea, such as Lemongrass Chai with Ginger and Mint).
What is lump crabmeat?
Lump crabmeat is meat extracted from different parts of the crab and categorized in two grades: jumbo lump and lump. Jumbo lump refers to meat from the two large muscles connected to crabs’ back swimming fins that are bright white in color and larger in size, perfect for Crispy Crab Cakes with Tomato Butter. Lump crabmeat is extracted from other parts of the body and can include torn pieces of jumbo-grade meat. Lump crabmeat is ideal for this fried rice recipe as well as dishes like Crab Salad with Serrano and Kewpie Mayonnaise, Warm Piquillo & Crab Dip, and casseroles such as our Hot Crab Dish, which evokes the flavors of a summer crab boil.
Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen
For a quicker version of this dish, you can use lump crabmeat and forgo poaching the crabs in step 2. To use lump crabmeat instead of fresh crabs, skip steps 2 and 3, and omit the poached crab ingredients. Replace crabmeat in step 5 with 3 3/4 cups lump crabmeat.
If you don’t have day-old rice, spread freshly cooked rice on a baking sheet, and chill, uncovered, in the refrigerator for a few hours.
Find seasoning sauce at Asian grocery stores or online at hmart.com.
“You can tweak the prik nam pla to suit your palate,” says F&W tester Tricia Manzanero Stuedeman. “If you don’t love spicy foods, add only one or even half a Thai chili. If you want all the heat, feel free to increase it.”
Make ahead
Prik nam pla (Thai dipping sauce) tastes best fresh but can be stored in an airtight container in a refrigerator for 3 days. The picked crabmeat in step 3 can be stored in an airtight container in a refrigerator for up to 3 days.
Suggested pairing
A lightly funky natural white wine, such as Gut Oggau Theodora, pairs beautifully with this recipe.
Ingredients
Prik Nam Pla
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2 tablespoons fish sauce
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2 tablespoons fresh lime juice (from 1 lime)
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1/4 teaspoon granulated sugar
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1 Thai chile, thinly sliced
Poached Crab
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6 quarts water
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3/4 cup kosher salt
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8 makrut lime leaves
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4 small lemongrass stalks, halved lengthwise
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2 (1 1/2-pound) fresh Dungeness crabs or 3 3/4 cups lump crabmeat
Fried Rice
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1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon canola oil
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2 tablespoons finely chopped garlic
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4 large eggs
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4 cups cold day-old cooked jasmine rice
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4 teaspoons granulated sugar
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2 tablespoons seasoning sauce (such as Golden Mountain) or Maggi
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2 tablespoons soy sauce
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1/2 teaspoon fish sauce
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1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions, plus more for garnish
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1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper
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Fresh cilantro leaves, for garnish
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Lime wedges, sliced cucumber, and Thai chile sauce (such as Kikkoman), for serving
Directions
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Make the prik nam pla
Whisk together all prik nam pla ingredients in a small bowl until well combined. Set aside until ready to use. If using lump crabmeat, skip to step 4.
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Make the poached crab
Stir together 6 quarts water, salt, lime leaves, and lemongrass in a large pot or Dutch oven; bring to a boil over medium-high. Using tongs, grab crabs, and plunge each, headfirst, into pot. Cook, undisturbed, until crabs turn bright orange, 12 to 14 minutes. Meanwhile, fill a large bowl with ice and water.
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Remove crabs from pot, shaking to remove any excess water; place in ice bath. Let stand until crabs are cool enough to handle, about 5 minutes. Remove crabs from ice bath. Remove crabmeat from shells, and transfer to a large bowl. Rinse, dry, and reserve large top shells. Discard tomalley and any remaining shell pieces.
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Make the fried rice
Heat oil in a large wok or large skillet over medium until shimmering. Add garlic, and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, 15 to 20 seconds. Crack eggs into wok; cook, undisturbed, just until edges of whites start to set, about 15 seconds. Stir eggs using a spatula until scrambled, about 30 seconds. Add rice and sugar; cook, stirring often, until rice is slightly caramelized, about 1 minute. Continue to cook, stirring constantly, about 3 minutes. Stir in seasoning sauce, soy sauce, and fish sauce until well incorporated, about 1 minute.
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Add reserved crabmeat to wok; cook, stirring constantly, until crab is heated through, 1 to 2 minutes. Add scallions and white pepper; turn off heat, and stir until scallions soften, about 1 minute.
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Place reserved shells, open side up, on a serving plate. Divide fried rice between shells and plates. Alternatively, divide rice between 2 large bowls to serve. Garnish with cilantro and extra scallions, and serve immediately with lime wedges, sliced cucumber, Thai chile sauce, and prik nam pla.
Originally appeared in Food & Wine magazine, December 2023 / January 2024