Grilled Picanha with Piri Piri

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Tender, buttery, melt-in-your-mouth steak is served with a tangy, punchy, and slightly spicy piri piri condiment.

GRILLED PICANHA WITH PIRI PIRI
Photo:

Victor Protasio / Food Styling by Margaret Dickey / Prop Styling by Claire Spollen

Active Time:
1 hr
Total Time:
2 hrs 50 mins
Servings:
6

Junior Borges grills Brazil’s most famous beef cut, the ultra-flavorful picanha (or top sirloin cap), for a steak that’s juicy and tender. The meat is seasoned very simply — just salt and pepper — but that allows the flavor of the meat itself to shine through. Borges serves his picanha with a piri piri sauce that features malagueta chiles — small but mighty peppers with bracing sweet heat. Think of it as a sort of cousin to chimichurri, but with the added flavor and texture of sweet red bell peppers. If you can’t source picanha, you can substitute tri-tip, another flavorful cut with nice marbling; it can be cooked the same way as the picanha, but it might be slightly tougher. 

Frequently Asked Questions

  • What is malagueta pepper good for?

    The malagueta pepper, about two inches long and bearing a resemblance to the bird’s eye or Thai chile, is widely used in Brazil. While it is available fresh, it’s most commonly preserved —  large jars of the crimson chiles are a regular sight in Brazil’s bars and restaurants. Borges always keeps a few jars of the peppers on hand to add to hearty stews and soups. “You can also use the brine, which has spice and acidity to it, for different dishes,” he says, noting that if you want a modest amount of heat, adding just a few drops of the brine to a dish does the trick.

  • Where can you find picanha?

    Find Wagyu picanha at butcher shops or online at snakeriverfarms.com. If your butcher doesn't carry picanha, Tri-tip is a good substitute.

  • What is piri piri?

    Piri piri, also seen spelled peri-peri or peli-peli, is the Portugese word for an African bird's-eye chili. While not exactly the same as a malagueta pepper, they are often used interchangeably.

Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen

To cook the picanha on a gas grill, light one side of the grill to medium-low (300°F to 350°F); keep the other side unlit. Proceed with steps 3 through 5 as directed.

Make ahead

Piri piri can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to three days.

Suggested pairing

Serve with a peppery Malbec, such as Finca Decero Remolinos Vineyard.

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Ingredients

  • 1 (3-pound) whole picanha, preferably Wagyu 

  • 1 tablespoon flaky sea salt, plus more for serving

  • 1 teaspoon black pepper

  • 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided

  • 2 cups finely chopped red bell pepper (about 2 bell peppers)

  • 1 tablespoon minced garlic (about 3 cloves)

  • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, divided, plus more to taste

  • 1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions (about 3 scallions)

  • 1/2 cup packed chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

  • 1/4 cup finely chopped shallot

  • 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar or Cabernet vinegar 

  • 1 teaspoon thinly sliced malagueta chiles or red Thai chiles (about 3 small chiles)

Directions

  1. Trim and remove any silver skin, and trim fat cap from picanha to about 1/2-inch thickness. Score fat cap horizontally and vertically at 1/2-inch intervals, creating small crosshatches and making sure not to pierce flesh. Transfer picanha to a rimmed baking sheet, and season all over with flaky sea salt and black pepper. Let stand at room temperature 1 to 2 hours.

  2. Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons oil in a medium skillet over medium. Add bell pepper, garlic, and 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt; cook, stirring often, until very soft but not browned, about 15 minutes. Transfer mixture to a large bowl; let stand until cool, about 20 minutes. Stir in scallions, parsley, shallot, vinegar, chiles, remaining 6 tablespoons oil, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt. Add additional salt to taste, if desired. Cover piri piri and chill until ready to serve.

  3. Open bottom vent of charcoal grill completely. Light charcoal chimney starter filled with briquettes. When briquettes are covered with gray ash, pour them onto bottom grate of grill, and push them to one side of grill. Adjust vents as needed to maintain an internal temperature of 300°F to 325°F. Place picanha, fat cap down, on grates over unlit side of grill. Grill, covered, until a thermometer inserted in thickest portion of meat registers 110°F, 35 to 45 minutes.

  4. Move picanha to lit side of grill; grill, uncovered, until browned on all sides and a thermometer inserted in thickest portion registers 120°F to 125°F for medium-rare, 1 to 2 minutes per side. (Watch and move picanha as needed; as the fat starts to render, it will create some flare-ups.)

  5. Transfer picanha to a cutting board; let rest 15 to 30 minutes. Slice meat against the grain, and sprinkle with flaky sea salt to taste. Serve with piri piri.

Originally appeared in Food & Wine magazine, May 2024

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