A Very Puerto Rican Fish Dish

Kingfish Escabeche

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Instead of the typical fried fish, this version of escabeche showcases grilled kingfish, a rich and oily type of mackerel, bathed in an acidic pepper-and-onion marinade.

Jose Enrique

Updated on August 3, 2023

Tested by

Food & Wine Test Kitchen

Kingfish Escabeche — Photo:
Greg Dupree / Food Styling by Chelsea Zimmer and Melissa Gray / Prop Styling by Audrey Taylor

Active Time:

45 mins

Marinate Time:

4 hrs

Total Time:

5 hrs 35 mins

Servings:

6 servings

“If you drive around the coast of Puerto Rico, you’re bound to run into this dish.”

That’s the first thing chef Jose Enrique, chef and owner of Jose Enrique Puerto Rican Restaurant in San Juan, says about Kingfish Escabeche, a pickled and marinated fish dish served throughout the island. Vinegar is no stranger to any barbecue tradition, and in the Caribbean, it can work as both a preservation agent and a flavoring technique. Fish escabeche (also called escovitch fish in parts of the region) came to the Caribbean through Spain centuries ago; featuring fish that’s first cooked and then pickled in vinegar, it is beloved throughout the region.

Enrique has put his own spin on the dish, opting for a barbecue-ready version that calls for kingfish steaks that have been cooked over coals rather than fried fish (as is more typical). The smokiness from his Kingfish Escabeche is the perfect pairing for the tangy, tart vinegar he uses.

Enrique’s escabeche sauce leans heavily on rice vinegar and honey to preserve, sweeten, and break down the fat of the juicy kingfish steaks. The chef will often prepare a batch of the fish, pull them out ahead of a beach trip, and enjoy them hot or cold, an experience he describes as “very Puerto Rican.” — Kayla Stewart

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Ingredients

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced (about 3 cups)
2 large red bell peppers, stemmed and thinly sliced lengthwise (about 2 1/2 cups)
1 cup dry white wine
1 cup rice vinegar
1/2 cup honey
1 teaspoon black pepper
4 fresh bay leaves
1 tablespoon kosher salt, divided, plus more to taste
6 (6-ounce) kingfish steaks (1 inch thick, see Note)
Lime wedges, for garnish

Directions

Heat 1/2 cup olive oil in a large saucepan over medium. Add onion and bell peppers, and cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly softened, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in wine, vinegar, honey, black pepper, bay leaves, and 1 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil over medium. Reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until flavors meld and escabeche sauce is reduced by half, about 20 minutes. Season with additional salt to taste. Remove from heat. Cover sauce, and keep warm until ready to use.
Meanwhile, open bottom vent of a charcoal grill completely. Light charcoal chimney starter filled with charcoal. When charcoal is covered with gray ash, pour it onto bottom grate of grill. Adjust vents as needed to maintain a grill temperature of 350°F to 400°F.
Lightly brush mackerel with remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, and sprinkle with remaining 2 teaspoons salt. Place fish on oiled grates. Grill, uncovered, until grill marks appear and a thermometer inserted in thickest portion of fish registers 135°F, 4 to 5 minutes per side. Transfer fish to a 13- x 9-inch baking dish, and pour reserved escabeche sauce over top. Cover and chill at least 4 hours or up to 3 days. Allow fish and sauce come to room temperature before serving, about 45 minutes. Garnish with lime wedges.

Note

Thoroughly preheat the grill and generously oil the grill grates to prevent the kingfish steaks from sticking. Kingfish steaks, sometimes labeled as king mackerel, are available at specialty seafood markets or online at fultonfishmarket.com.

To make ahead

Escabeche can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Let the fish stand at room temperature 45 minutes before serving.

Suggested pairing

Dry, citrusy sparkling wine: NV Ferrari Trento Brut