Mas Riha (Maldivian Tuna Curry)

Total Time:

30 mins

Servings:

A can of coconut milk is all it takes to make a simple meal extraordinary. Tuna is simmered until flaky and tender in a fragrant coconut curry that comes together in 30 minutes. The tuna in this dish is flaky and tender, yet nicely meaty and hearty. It comes enrobed in a rich, robustly flavored coconut curry sauce that’s warm and a tad floral from a combination of cardamom, curry leaves, turmeric, cumin, cinnamon, and garam masala. Thinly sliced green chile adds a present yet pleasant heat. If you’re particularly sensitive to spice, you can seed the chiles before thinly slicing them.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is coconut oil?

Coconut oil is a saturated fat mixture that is processed by one of two methods: wet or dry. In the traditional wet process, an emulsion of oil and water is created from coconut milk and is then broken up by an extensive boiling period to separate out the oil. Unrefined coconut oil, which can be produced with either the wet or dry process, has a distinct nutty flavor and clean coconut aroma, as well as a lower smoke point; it’s a good candidate for baked goods.

The dry process for creating coconut oil involves removing the coconut meat from the shell and drying it by sunlight, by fire, or in an oven. The dried meat is then pressed or dissolved with various solvents to produce refined coconut oil. This additional processing gives refined coconut oil a higher smoke point and also makes it less aromatic and more subtle tasting, making it well suited for stir-frying and sautéing.
Where can I find fresh curry leaves?

Fresh curry leaves can be found in near other fresh herbs in some grocery stores, Asian grocery stores, and online at angkorfood.com.

Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen

Tuna cooks rather quickly and can also be enjoyed on the more medium-rare to medium side, so be sure to keep an eye on it while it cooks. Take into account that there will likely be some carryover cooking, so the internal temperature will continue to increase once you remove the fish from the heat.

A food processor can be used to chop the onion in a flash. Just peel it, cut out the root, chop into rough pieces, and blitz until the pieces reach your desired size.

Make ahead

To prep ahead of time, you can get your knife work and measuring done the night before. Ingredients added in the same step can be grouped together and stored in airtight containers, refrigerating if any perishable items are involved.

Store leftovers in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to two days. Gently reheat so as to not overcook the fish.

Suggested pairing

Serve with a tropical, fruit-forward Riesling, such as Chateau Ste. Michelle.

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Ingredients

1 pound tuna steaks (about 1 1/2 inches thick), cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided, plus more to taste
1/2 teaspoon black pepper, divided, plus more to taste
1 tablespoon refined coconut oil
1 white onion, chopped (about 1 3/4 cups)
5 fresh or frozen curry leaves
5 large garlic cloves, finely chopped (about 3 tablespoons)
1 to 2 green Thai chiles, thinly sliced (about 1 to 2 tablespoons)
1 tablespoon finely grated peeled fresh ginger (from 1 [3-inch] piece)
2 green cardamom pods, crushed
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1/2 teaspoon garam masala
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1 1/2 cups well-stirred unsweetened coconut milk
1 cinnamon stick
Chopped fresh cilantro, for garnish
Steamed basmati rice, for serving

Directions

Pat fish dry using paper towels; sprinkle evenly with 1 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon black pepper. Set aside.
Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium. Add onion; cook, stirring often, until softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Add curry leaves, garlic, chiles, and ginger; cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add cardamom, turmeric, garam masala, cumin, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon black pepper; cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
Add coconut milk, cinnamon stick, and remaining 1 teaspoon salt. Scrape bottom of pan to loosen any browned bits; bring to a simmer over medium-high. Nestle fish in sauce. Reduce heat to medium; cook until fish is tender and opaque, about 5 minutes, turning fish once halfway through cooking time. Season with additional salt and black pepper to taste. Garnish with cilantro. Serve immediately with rice.

Originally appeared in Food & Wine magazine, May 2024