Mussels with Saffron Aioli

Active Time:

1 hr 35 mins

Total Time:

4 hrs

Yield:

4 servings

Moules-frites, or mussels and french fries, are a staple at most French bistros and wine bars. Liz Mervosh brings France to the dinner table with briny mussels saturated in a thin, marinara-like sauce with grated yellow tomatoes, cumin, and piment d'Espelette, a French chile.

Herb-coated tender fingerling potatoes are served with the mussels as a heartier (and oven-roasted) alternative to the more traditional french fries.

A garlicky aioli with pops of floral saffron is a luscious dipping sauce for the roasted fingerling potatoes. It also makes a delicious accompaniment for fish or your favorite crudités.

Frequently asked questions

How do I clean mussels?

Whether you have farmed mussels or wild mussels, it’s still important to give them a solid rinse and scrub under running water to remove any dirt. While the seafood market should sell mussels that are de-bearded, check for any residual beards (thin brown threads coming out of the shell) and remove them. Make sure all mussels are alive before you start cooking by tapping them against a hard surface or against another mussel. It is alive if the shell closes, even if it's slowly. A dead mussel won’t close and should be discarded before cooking.

How long can I store mussels in the refrigerator?

Cover mussels in a bowl with a clean, damp cloth or paper towel for up to 2 days. Drain any water or dirt from the bowl daily to help maintain freshness.

What wine do I pair with mussels?

Look for a fresh, Rhône-style red, ideally from a natural wine producer, such as the Andréa Calek A Toi Nous for this recipe. The mussels' slightly sweet flavor makes a perfect pair with the Grenache- and-Syrah blend. For this specific recipe, the mussels' sweetness combined with juiciness from in-season yellow tomatoes work well with the wine plus the blend offers just enough structure to stand up to the creamy saffron aioli.

Can I make this recipe ahead of time?

The saffron aioli may be made ahead of time and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen

If there’s any leftover aioli, try it as a spread on sandwiches, crostini, and wraps. It can also be mixed with leftover roasted potatoes for a potato salad.

Mussels are sold live and should be kept well chilled in an open container so they can breathe until ready to use. (Don’t store mussels submerged in water.) Weed out and discard any mussels with broken shells. Test any mussels with open shells to make sure they are alive by tapping or gently squeezing the shells together; if the shells remain closed, they are alive and safe to cook and eat. Discard any mussels that remain open.

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Ingredients

Saffron Aioli

2 teaspoons Champagne vinegar
1/4 teaspoon saffron threads, crushed
1 small garlic clove, finely chopped
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
1 large egg yolk
1/4 cup canola oil
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons water
1/2 teaspoon honey

Mussels and potatoes

1 1/2 pounds multicolored fingerling potatoes, halved lengthwise
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
3/4 teaspoons ground piment d’Espelette (such as Biperduna), divided
2 small (8-ounce) yellow tomatoes
1/2 cup finely chopped fennel bulb (about 1 small bulb), fronds reserved for garnish
1/2 cup finely chopped yellow onion (from 1 small onion)
2 teaspoons finely chopped garlic
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
Pinch of saffron threads
1/4 cup (2 ounces) dry vermouth
2 pounds mussels, scrubbed and debearded
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh tarragon

Directions

Make the Saffron Aioli

Stir together vinegar and saffron in a small bowl. Let saffron bloom (hydrate and release its aroma and color) for 10 minutes. Place garlic on a cutting board, and sprinkle with salt. Using flat side of a large knife, mash and scrape garlic mixture until a paste forms. Transfer mixture to a small bowl, and add egg yolk and saffron mixture; whisk until blended. Gradually add canola oil and olive oil in a thin, steady stream, whisking constantly, until thickened and emulsified. Whisk in 2 teaspoons water and honey. Season with additional salt to taste.

Make the potatoes

Preheat oven to 425°F. Toss together potatoes, 2 tablespoons oil, and 3/4 teaspoon salt in a large bowl. Arrange potatoes, cut side down, along outer edges of a large rimmed baking sheet lined with aluminum foil. Set bowl aside. Roast potatoes in preheated oven until tender and golden brown in spots on cut sides, 25 to 30 minutes, rotating baking sheet on oven rack halfway through roasting time. Return roasted potatoes to reserved bowl; add parsley and 1/2 teaspoon piment d’Espelette, and toss to combine. Set aside, and keep warm.
While potatoes roast, set a box grater inside a medium bowl. Grate tomatoes on large holes of box grater; discard tomato skins and stems. Set aside.

Make the mussels

Heat remaining 3 tablespoons oil in a large Dutch oven over medium. Add chopped fennel, onion, and garlic; cook, stirring often, until softened, about 6 minutes. Add cumin, saffron, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon piment d’Espelette; cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add grated tomatoes, and bring to a simmer over medium. Simmer, stirring often, until mixture is reduced to the consistency of thin, juicy marinara sauce, 3 to 4 minutes. Add vermouth; cook, stirring often, about 2 minutes. Add mussels, and increase heat to medium-high. Cover and cook, shaking Dutch oven occasionally, until mussels open, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from heat. Remove and discard any unopened mussels.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer mussels to a large bowl. Stir butter, tarragon, and remaining 3/4 teaspoon salt into tomato mixture in Dutch oven. Pour tomato mixture over mussels. Garnish with fennel fronds. Serve with saffron aioli and potatoes.

Originally appeared in Food & Wine magazine, September 2023