April in the Hudson Valley is unpredictable. Yes, it’s technically spring, but I’ve seen snow this time of year more often than I want to think about. While much of the country has started enjoying warmer days, things here are still bleak, cold, and damp. It’s around this time that I find myself manically seeking out anything that’s not beige and dusty, pale orange, or named something fairylike such as a “Gilfeather,” which as lovely as it is to say, is still just a turnip — you can’t trick me!
After months of braised pork shoulders, roasted root vegetables, baked pastas, and stews, I want dishes that offer comfort but aren’t necessarily heavy. Enter this brothy Pernod-braised chicken thigh recipe, which offers the satisfaction of a slow-cooked meal but comes together in about 45 minutes. Here, bone-in chicken thighs are browned then braised with fennel, leeks, and bit of Pernod, which intensify the snappy licorice-ness of the fennel. After braising the chicken thighs, the whole dish is finished with a showering of fresh herbs and a squeeze of lemon for brightness. A hunk of good, crusty bread for sopping is all you need to round out this meal.I like to drink wine when I cook and when I eat (also, whenever I can) and thought a medium- to full-bodied Italian white would work well to sip on. Because there are florally, aromatic notes in the dish from the fennel and Pernod, I supposed that something on the drier end would be wise so the two don’t compete for attention.
Because I do drink a fair amount of wine, I have a very good relationship with my gem of a local wine store Hudson Wine Merchants. I always ask their advice on wines and love hearing what they have to say, which I fully believe everyone should be doing. (Talk to the people at your local wine store. Trust me — you’ll learn so much!) Luckily they were in agreement with my parameters and pointed me toward a wine from Campania called Cantina di Lisandro Alabranno, which is made from 100% Fiano grapes. This bottle is bright and lively and has fresh but not aggressive acidity, which cuts nicely through the delicate richness of the braise. It’s like sipping on sunshine — and as I impatiently wait for spring to be sprung, this will have to tide me over. With the wine and this beautiful brothy, braise-y dish on my side, I think I might just make it. — Colu Henry
Ingredients
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2 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs (4 to 6 thighs)
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1 3/4 teaspoons kosher salt, divided
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1/4 teaspoon black pepper
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2 tablespoons grapeseed or canola oil
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1 medium fennel bulb, thinly sliced crosswise (about 2 1/3 cups)
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2 medium leeks, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced (light green and white parts only) (about 2 cups)
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2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
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1/4 cup Pernod
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1 1/2 to 2 cups chicken stock, plus more if needed
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1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh tarragon, for garnish
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1 tablespoon roughly chopped fennel fronds, for garnish
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Lemon wedges and flaky sea salt, for serving (optional)
Directions
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Season chicken thighs with 1 1/4 teaspoons salt and pepper. In a heavy-bottomed skillet, heat oil over medium-high. Add chicken thighs, skin side down; cook, undisturbed, until nicely browned, 4 to 5 minutes. Flip and brown other side, 4 to 5 minutes more. Transfer to a plate, and set aside.
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Pour off all but 2 tablespoons fat from pan; return to medium-low heat. Add fennel and leeks; cook, stirring often, until they begin to soften, 2 to 3 minutes. Add garlic, and cook 1 minute more. Stir in Pernod, scraping up any browned bits that have formed at the bottom of the pan. Cook until liquid is mostly absorbed, about 1 minute. Season with remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt.
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Return chicken to pan along with any residual juices. Pour in enough of the stock to come halfway up chicken thighs; bring to a simmer. Partially cover, and cook until chicken is done and tender, 25 to 30 minutes.
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To serve, spoon the braising liquid around the chicken with a showering of the tarragon and fennel fronds. Serve with lemon wedges and flaky salt, if desired.
Antonis Achilleos