Caramelized Onions

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Beautifully caramelized onions are the secret to French onion soup, flavor-packed dips, pasta dishes, and more. Here's how to caramelize onions like a pro.

Caramelized Onions Recipe
Photo: Victor Protasio
Total Time:
2 hrs
Yield:
2 cups

Sweet and umami-packed, caramelized onions make almost everything better, and learning how to caramelize onions will serve you well for all kinds of dishes. Need a quick dip? Mix caramelized onions with sour cream, cream cheese, and a few seasonings for a next-level caramelized onion dip. Sad soup? Give your mirepoix a boost by caramelizing the onions before adding the other ingredients. Casserole lacks oomph, and you dare not rely on that can of cream-of-something soup? Caramelized onions are here for you. Have an onion and dried pasta on hand? How about some French Onion Pasta for dinner?

The only catch to this pantry powerhouse is that caramelized onions take well over an hour to cook properly, and chances are high they will scorch a little and turn acrid and bitter. When I was in culinary school, I was taught that the enemies of caramelization are movement and moisture. I have come to respectfully disagree, at least where onions are concerned. Those elements are, in fact, exactly what's needed to achieve caramelized onion nirvana. I developed this caramelized onion recipe to help you create restaurant-quality onions at home.

How to caramelize onions

This fail-safe technique for caramelizing onions uses a lid and some water to manipulate the moisture of the cooking onions, guaranteeing sublime sweetness. Properly caramelized onions are spreadably soft but maintain their individual strands, are uniform in their mahogany color, and taste silky-sweet with a hint of onion bite. They cook down to a third of their original volume, giving up the majority of their moisture while their sugars slowly caramelize, darkening into a slump of flavor fit for improving any number of wintertime dishes.

Frequently asked questions

How do you caramelize onions evenly?

Even cooking starts with even cutting. It's more important that the onions be cut uniformly than cut a specific size. If it's easier for you to cut onions into 1/2-inch pieces rather than 1/4-inch pieces, no problem. Just be consistent — the onions will still caramelize evenly, though larger cuts may take a bit longer to cook.

How long does it take to caramelize onions?

Caramelized onions take some time, at least an hour and a half to cook once they are in the pan. Since it takes a bit of time and a careful eye to caramelize onions, make this recipe on a weekend or another day when you have time to spend in the kitchen. Let the onions cool to room temperature then divide them into ice cube trays or small containers to freeze them so you can use them for quick meals throughout the week.

What is the best pan to use for caramelized onions?

Be sure to choose a heavy-bottomed skillet with a light interior — it will make it easier to monitor the browned bits in the bottom of the pan to avoid scorching the onions.

Make ahead

I let the cooked onions cool to room temperature then divide them into ice cube trays to freeze and use throughout the week. Sometimes, depending on what I plan to use them for, I puree them before freezing them. The pureed onion ice cubes are great for melting into sauces and soups, while longer onion strands are ideal for adding to rustic soups and clinging to curly pasta shapes.

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Ingredients

  • 2 pounds red onions (about 3 large onions)

  • 2 pounds yellow onions (about 3 large onions)

  • 2 teaspoons neutral oil (such as grapeseed)

  • 2 teaspoons kosher salt

Directions

  1. Slice the onions

    How to Caramelize Onions
    Victor Protasio

    Peel the onions. Halve and slice lengthwise into uniform pieces (about 3/8-inch-wide slices are ideal, but a little larger or smaller is fine).

  2. Heat the oil

    How to Caramelize Onions- step 2

    Food & Wine / Victor Protasio

    Heat oil in a 10- to 12-inch high-sided skillet over medium-high. Add half the onions; turn to coat. Cook until sizzling, about 2 minutes. Add remaining onions in handfuls, folding with tongs to coat in oil. (Pan will be very full at this point).

  3. Cook the onions

    How to Caramelize Onions- step 3

    Food & Wine / Victor Protasio

    Cook onions, tossing often with tongs, until hot and sizzling, about 3 minutes. Add salt (to help draw moisture out of the onions), and toss to combine.

  4. Cover the skillet

    How to Caramelize Onions- step 4

    Food & Wine / Victor Protasio

    Cover, reduce heat to medium, and cook until onions have collapsed to half their height and a pool of liquid has collected in bottom of skillet, about 10 minutes

  5. Fold the onions together

    How to Caramelize Onions- step 5

    Food & Wine / Victor Protasio

    Fold onions with a spatula, scraping bottom of pan to ensure they don’t stick or scorch. Cook, stirring every 5 to 6 minutes and reducing heat as necessary to maintain a gentle simmer, until liquid has evaporated, about 35 minutes.

  6. Scrape the pan to avoid burning

    How to Caramelize Onions- step 6

    Food & Wine / Victor Protasio

    When pan looks dry, increase heat to medium, and scrape bottom and sides of pan with a rubber spatula, shaping mound of onions into an even patty pulled away from edges of pan. This careful shaping will help the onions cook evenly and prevent scorched bits around the edges.

  7. Deglaze with water

    How to Caramelize Onions- step 7

    Food & Wine / Victor Protasio

    If onions start to stick to bottom of pan, or if fond on bottom of pan darkens more quickly than the onions, add a splash of water, and stir and scrape to loosen any browned bits. Stir onions well until they are uniform in color, and reshape into a patty.

  8. Let the onions brown further

    How to Caramelize Onions- step 8

    Food & Wine / Victor Protasio

    Continue cooking, stirring, splashing in additional water, and reshaping into a patty as needed, until onions are the color of bourbon, 35 to 45 minutes. Remove onions from pan, and use as desired.

Originally appeared: January 2020

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