Fresh Salsa Mexicana from Jerez

The late Mexican food authority Diana Kennedy wrote in Food & Wine about the day she spotted a man at the Jerez Sunday market filling a large bag with handfuls of shiny, multicolored chiles of all shapes and sizes. She asked how he was going to use them, and he said "I am going to make a salsa Mexicana of course." Kennedy knew it would be delicious, with all those crisp flavors and degrees of piquancy. This recipe for salsa Mexicana uses four kinds of chiles — poblano, red jalapeño, yellow chiles, and serrano chiles — but you can vary the salsa with what is available in your market. Do not remove the seeds of small chiles like serranos. RELATED: Diana Kennedy Shares 7 Recipes from Her Mexican Kitchen