Triple-Cooked Fries

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These fries had a cult following at New York City's The Breslin. Boiling makes the potatoes tender; double-frying makes them unbelievably crispy.

Thrice-Cooked Fries
Photo: © Matthew Armendariz
Active Time:
1 hr
Chill Time:
1 hr
Total Time:
3 hrs
Servings:
4

Time-consuming? Perhaps. Worth it? Without a doubt. For folks who take their French fry game very seriously, these triple-cooked fries are as crispy, crunchy, and fried to golden perfection as they get. The key is implementing chef Heston Blumenthal’s iconic triple-cooked method that guarantees the crunchiest spuds with every batch. The fries do take a bit of patience and an efficient work station is a must. But adopting this technique makes enjoying restaurant-quality fries at home — without a deep fryer — more than achievable.

Frequently Asked Questions

  • What is triple-cook frying?

    Triple-cook frying refers to English chef Heston Blumenthal's three-step cooking process for preparing french fries or chips. It involves boiling the potatoes first, refrigerating them, then deep-frying them twice at different temperatures for even crispier results. The result is a supremely crispy fry with a pillowy-soft center.

  • What type of potato is best for French fries?

    When preparing homemade french fries, it’s best to use high-starch potatoes, which contain lower moisture levels and won’t break apart when fried at high temperatures; Idaho or russet potatoes are typically the best options. On the other hand, waxy potatoes — such as red bliss or fingerlings — contain more moisture and lower starch content and aren’t as optimal for preparing french fries.

Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen

When preparing triple-cooked fries, it’s best to work in smaller batches to avoid extreme fluctuations in the frying oil's temperature. Keep an eye on the thermometer as you introduce a new batch and adjust the temperatures as needed. Between batches, return the oil to the appropriate temperature for even crispier results.

Make ahead

Although triple-cooked fries are best when consumed shortly after prepared, you can get a head start on some components of the dish. For example, setting up your cooking station. Even though the ingredient list is short — potatoes, salt, and oil — the list of cooking supplies is a bit more involved. Be prepared to have a large bowl, large pot, baking sheet, skillet, wire rack, frying thermometer, heat-resistant spider strainer, and a roll of paper towels handy.

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Ingredients

  • 4 large baking potatoes (3/4 pound each), scrubbed but not peeled

  • Kosher salt

  • Vegetable oil, for frying

Directions

  1. How to Make French Fries

    © Matthew Armendariz

    Cut potatoes into 1/3-inch-thick steak fries.

  2. How to Make French Fries

    © Matthew Armendariz

    Transfer fries to a bowl of cold water.

  3. How to Make French Fries

    © Matthew Armendariz

    Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Drain potatoes, add them to pot, and boil just until tender, about 5 minutes.

  4. How to Make French Fries

    © Matthew Armendariz

    Carefully drain potatoes and transfer them to a paper towel–lined rack to cool. Refrigerate until chilled, about 1 hour.

  5. How to Make French Fries

    © Matthew Armendariz

    In a large, deep skillet, heat 2 inches of oil to 250°F. Set a rack over a baking sheet. Working in batches, fry potatoes just until they begin to brown around the edges, about 8 minutes.

  6. How to Make French Fries

    © Matthew Armendariz

    Transfer the potatoes to the rack and let cool. When all of the potatoes have been fried once, heat the oil to 350°F.

  7. How to Make French Fries

    © Matthew Armendariz

    Fry potatoes again, in batches, until golden and crisp, about 7 minutes per batch.

  8. How to Make French Fries

    © Matthew Armendariz

    Drain the fries on a paper towel–lined baking sheet.

  9. How to Make French Fries

    © Matthew Armendariz

    Sprinkle with salt and serve.

Originally appeared: September 2009

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