Tortine di Riso Agli Agrumi (Italian-style Rice Custard with Citrus)

This sweet rice dish from Emiko Davies, the Tuscany-based author of the cookbook Cinnamon and Salt. 

Inspired by the classic torta di riso alla Carrarina, a special dessert from the area of Tuscany's Carrara marble quarries, this sweet rice dish’s defining feature is that as it bakes, it separates into two layers: the top transforms into a delicate, barely-set custard, while the bottom develops into a firmer layer of soft rice bound with custard. Each bite of the finished dessert combines the best of the worlds of both rice pudding and custard.

Australian cookbook author and food journalist Emiko Davies, who shared her tortine di riso recipe with Food & Wine, has been making it for years, first in her Florentine kitchen, then in her home in San Miniato, where she now lives with her sommelier husband and two daughters. 

The simplicity of the dish is part of its charm but if you want to tweak something here, play around with the aromas that go into the custard. The orange could be replaced with another citrus; lemon is especially nice in this recipe. If you are a fan, some crushed aniseed or fennel seeds are much-loved in Tuscan desserts and would go very well here. But what really makes a difference in this delicate custard is the choice of liqueur, so choose wisely. The Cointreau and Grand Marnier in this recipe have a distinct orange flavor. If you like stronger flavors, sambuca or another aniseed-scented liqueur is another good option. For more classic palates, go for rum or brandy. For a non-alcoholic version, simply leave the liquor out or add a teaspoon of orange extract.

The topping of poached, almost-candied slices of orange, although not traditional, elevates this homely dessert and highlights the subtle citrus notes of the liqueur. Let the tortine cool completely before brûléeing the top to prevent curdling.