What It’s Like to Have Dinner at Osteria Francescana

With its quiet corridors and intimate dining rooms, walking into Osteria Francescana is like walking into a classic six pre-war apartment on New York’s Upper East Side. If that apartment just so happened to have three Michelin stars.

On a recent trip to the countryside of Emilia-Romagna — a region of Italy known for its spectacular culinary products like Parmigiano Reggiano, Lambrusco, balsamico, and, of course, truffles — I had the distinct pleasure of having dinner at Osteria Francescana, which delivered a delicious celebration of all the region has to offer. 

Our car rumbled down the cobblestone street as we approached the restaurant, which first opened its doors in 1995. After shuffling in from the rain, which couldn’t dampen my or my dining party’s anticipation, we got our first sight of the restaurant, which was tucked behind an unassuming, save the multiple gold plaques touting the restaurant’s accolades, sage green facade. Hosts greeted us, guiding a slow tour of the hallways and petit rooms before showing me to my assigned seat. I was traveling with a group as a part of American Express’ By Invitation Only, a unique benefit for Platinum and Centurion Cards Members that provides VIP access to cultural events and experiences like this one, so we took over the small restaurant quite quickly. 

The rooms are cozy, with warm-toned walls, patterned carpeting, lush curtains, and leather chairs that envelop you in a soft embrace, allowing you to get comfortable for the dining experience to come. The walls aren’t forgotten either — each lined with art from black-and-white portraits to stunning contemporary paintings. Bottura and his wife Lara Gilmore, who majored in fine art herself, are serious collectors with an appreciation for a range of styles. Their restaurants and bed and breakfast, Casa Maria Luiga, seamlessly blend their tastes and inviting hospitality. The light at Osteria Francescana is bright enough to see every detail of the meal, but just dim enough to keep you relaxed. 

The ten (plus a few extra bites) course meal started with the longest, most flavorful grissini that rested gently in a silver dish — I have a soft spot for crisp breadsticks. There was a trio of bites to follow, the standout a small pastry filled with cream that tasted of rich, savory carbonara. Each course was presented by a troupe of servers who placed the plates down with impeccable synchronicity. I followed along on my printed menu; each dish was named something whimsical, like “A Thousand Layers of Leaves” or “Better than Popcorn.” 

Bottura described a dish called “A Potato that wants to become a White Truffle” as a tribute to Italy in the fall season. As a words person myself I noted the use of proper nouns for the ingredients — Potato, White Truffle — a sign of the chef’s reverence for the medium with which he makes his art. Up next was a famed chef Bottura dish, the “Five ages of Parmigiano Reggiano,” which features 24, 30, 36, 40, and 50-month-old cheese served in a myriad of ways, including a supple souffle, a salty and tangy foam, a silky sauce, and a crunchy tuile. 

Though, his next dish was the standout of the night. Petit spherical ravioli filled with foie gras gently slid around the plate in a slick, rich demi-glace studded with freshly shaved white truffle. The pairing, a stellar 2009 Chateau d’Yquem, served as a nutty, honeyed counterpoint to the umami-driven pasta and sauce.

Chef Bottura’s playful personality came through in a sweet-and-savory dish called “Better than Popcorn,” which arrived at the table in tall movie theater popcorn cups (yes, the orange ones that say the word “popcorn” on it that you could find at your local theater, though I don’t suggest you try making this dish at home). As the cup was lifted from the dish, candied popcorn kernels, popcorn dust, shaved white truffle, and popcorn ice cream cascaded onto the plate. Servers came around to adorn the dish with two sprays of buttered popcorn mist, which filled the room with movie theater bliss. 

To my surprise, after ten-plus courses and seven glasses of wine I was filled with more energy than I had when I arrived. There’s just something about Bottura’s charisma and his culinary genius at Osteria Francescana that can’t help but make you smile and say, probably a little too loud, “Wow, this is so good” about a hundred times.