How To Grow And Care For Strawberries In Pots

Trips to the farmers' market in the summer are fun, but there's nothing more satisfying than growing the bounty right in your backyard. Red, juicy strawberries (Fragaria × ananassa) are one of our summertime favorites that are easy to grow in your garden. If you're not ready to commit to a full-blown berry patch, strawberries also grow well in containers. In the spring, set the plants in regular pots, hanging baskets, or window boxes. Some gardeners prefer using terra-cotta strawberry pots. The best part? You don't need a backyard to harvest your own strawberries. Containers are a low-maintenance and convenient way to enjoy cultivating low-growing strawberry plants on apartment balconies, front stoops, or patios. It takes 60 to 90 days for them to grow from seed to berry. Once they're ripe, pluck these juicy gems off the vine to use in sweet desserts like Strawberry Shortcake Sheet Cake or savory appetizers like Strawberry Caprese Salad. Here's how to grow strawberries in pots.

Plant Attributes

Common Name:	Strawberry
Botanical Name:	Fragaria x ananassa
Family:	Rosaceae
Plant Type:	Perennial, fruit
Mature Size:	6-12 in. tall, 12-24 in. wide
Sun Exposure:	Full
Soil Type:	Loamy, well-drained
Soil pH:	5.5 - 7.0
Bloom Time:	Spring, summer
Flower Color:	White, pink, yellow
Hardiness Zones:	5-9 (USDA)
Native Area:	North America, Europe

Strawberry Pot Care

Pick a pot with plenty of room for the strawberries' roots to grow. Strawberries don't like to be crowded, so space out three (or so) plants in each container. The Grumpy Gardener recommends using name-brand potting soil in containers for best results. Deadhead spent blooms to keep the plants healthy. Give them plenty of sunlight and water for a season's worth of delicious produce.

Light

Strawberries produce a greater harvest when grown in full sun. Place the strawberry container in a sunny area that receives eight hours of sun each day. If one side is shaded, rotate the container every few days.

Soil

Plant the strawberries in a container with brand-name soil that is loose and well-draining. They prefer loamy, slightly acidic soil. Strawberries only need to be planted in four to six inches of soil, so shallow containers will work. Use a container with a hole in the bottom to allow excess water to drain.

Water

Give strawberries an inch or two of water per week. Water regularly once the fruit begins to form. Plants in containers dry out more frequently, so make sure to check the soil’s moisture every day in hot temperatures.

Fertilizer

Strawberry plants in containers benefit from supplemental feeding. Use a 10-10-10 fertilizer every three or four weeks and in the fall when next year’s perennating buds are forming.

Types of Strawberries for Pots

When looking for plants at the garden center, choose the best selection for your zone. Strawberries are divided into three categories:

• June-bearing varieties are known as dependable growers throughout the South and produce one crop per year in late spring or early summer. Try selections like 'Allstar' (US, MS, LS, CS; USDA 4-8), 'Chandler' (US, MS, LS, CS, TS; USDA 5-8), and 'Surecrop' (US, MS, LS; USDA 4-8).
• Everbearing types produce two crops—one in late spring or early summer and another in the fall. These selections prefer the Upper and Middle South (they can't handle the summer heat any farther South). Look for 'Ozark Beauty' (US, MS, LS; USDA 4-8) and 'Quinault' (US, MS, LS; USDA 4-8).
• Day-neutral, the third type, also produces two crops per year; it grows fruits for longer and with better quality in the fall. We suggest 'Aromas' (US, MS, LS, CS; USDA 3-9) or 'Tristar' (US, MS, LS; USDA 4-8).

Pruning

Pruning your strawberry plant encourages new growth and helps maintain size. In late summer, cut strawberry plants back to about an inch above the crown. If your plants produce a lot of runners, use pruning shears to cut some of them from the strawberry plants. Runners take up a lot of the plant’s energy, and cutting them helps the plant direct its energy into the fruit. If the plant is producing a lot of runners, the berries may be smaller or there may be less of them.

Propagating Strawberries for Pots

Strawberry plants produce runners at the end of the growing season. Runners grow from the plant’s base and have small nodes that will take root and help the plant propagate itself. Planting these runners is the best method for propagating a strawberry plant. In the fall, these baby strawberry plants can be cut from the main plant and planted into new containers with organic, loamy soil.

How To Grow Strawberries From Seed

You can buy strawberry plants for your pots and plant them after the last frost, or start strawberries from seed indoors. To start from seed, you’ll need to start in winter. 

1. In December, stratify the seeds by placing them in the freezer for three to four weeks. 
2. After this time, remove them from the freezer and bring them to room temperature.
3. Fill seed starter trays with moist potting soil and sow seeds, pressing them into the soil and lightly covering them with it.
4. Keep the tray in bright light and at a temperature of 65 to 75ºF. Keep the soil moist and don’t let it dry.
5. Germination can take up to six weeks. Once the seedlings have three sets of true leaves, transplant them to a larger pot.
6. Acclimate the plants to the outdoors and plant in the pot outdoors after the last frost.

Potting and Repotting Strawberries

You can start strawberries from seed and transplant them to a strawberry pot or other container once they have leaves, or purchase plants from a garden center. Strawberries in pots will last about three years, so repotting the plants may not be necessary. Snip runners to add new plants to your container.

1. Add name-brand potting soil to a container with a drainage hole.
2. Mound the potting soil and place the crown of the plant, where the leaves meet the roots, on the surface. Spread the roots and cover them up to the crown with soil. Give the plants plenty of room to grow, using only three plants per 12-inch container. Water them well.
3. Place the pot in an area where the full plant will get eight hours or more of sun each day.
4. Cover with netting to keep birds and other animals from the plants.
5. Water about once a week or when the soil one inch below the surface feels dry.

Overwintering

Typically, strawberry plants should be protected in colder climates by a layer of mulch. Strawberries in containers can be moved to a garage or shed that remains above 28ºF. In a cold environment, place the pot against the inside wall of the house for warmth and use straw to insulate if necessary. Move the plants when the crowns become dormant, turning brown and shriveled. Remove any dead leaves. Water occasionally.

Common Pests & Plant Diseases

Growing strawberries in pots reduces pest problems, but it can also cause diseases to spread rapidly. Birds, deer, and rabbits like to eat the leaves and berries, so place netting over the plants to protect them from hungry wildlife.

Gray mold and powdery mildew are diseases to watch out for. To prevent disease, remove infected leaves and fruit, add a layer of straw to prevent splashing the berries in rain, and provide good airflow between plants. Use a natural fungicide like neem oil to prevent and treat gray mold, which likes cooler conditions with high humidity, and powdery mildew, which thrives in heat. 

Common Problems With Strawberries in Pots

Strawberries need consistent moisture and sun for success in the garden. Give them sufficient airflow by not overcrowding them. Too much moisture can lead to unhealthy plants. Signs the plants are in distress include curling leaves and leaves turning yellow or brown. Here’s what these issues indicate.

Curling Leaves

Leaves will naturally curl in the morning, but they should be fully open during the day. Curling leaves could indicate powdery mildew or cyclamen mites. For mites, apply insecticidal soap to the leaves weekly, including the underside where they tend to feed, and get rid of infected plants. At the first signs of powdery mildew, such as curling leaves and a white powdery coating, apply fungicide to the plant and prune away dead leaves. Give it consistent water.

Leaves Turning Yellow

This indicates overwatering of the plants, either by heavy rain or manual watering. Strawberries need consistent moisture, but they do not like to sit in wet, soggy soil. Too much water at the roots makes it difficult for them to get proper airflow. Make sure to plant them in well-draining soil and in a pot with sufficient drainage. Cut back on watering if leaves begin to yellow and droop. Water when the soil is moderately dry. If water is puddled around the base, loosen the soil around it to increase airflow.

Leaves Turning Brown

Brown leaves can indicate several issues with a strawberry plant. Overwatering can cause leaves to turn yellow and then brown. Rain followed by hot sun can cause leaves to scorch and turn brown. This can also happen when watering late in the day and watering overhead. Brown leaves can also indicate that cold or frost has affected the plants or that the plant is affected by leaf spot. To fix, remove any brown leaves that have died back on the plant and adjust watering as needed. If leaf spot is suspected, spray the plant with fungicide.