What Makes San Marzano Tomatoes So Special?

Canned tomatoes are one of the undisputed MVP's of the kitchen pantry, and San Marzano tomatoes are especially coveted due to their sweetness, relatively low acidity, and robust tomatoey flavor.

Even if you’ve got nothing more than some dried pasta, a single can of tomatoes, salt, and pepper sitting on your pantry shelves, you can pull together a comforting homemade dinner with minimal effort. Much like Vidalia onions are called the Champagne of onions, the San Marzano variety is often affectionately called the Champagne of canned tomatoes because they must come from a particular region of Italy.

We've all surveyed the massive selection of canned tomatoes at the local grocery store, wondering what the difference is between the standard cans of tomatoes marked $1.99, versus the tins labeled and certified San Marzano that are usually priced at $5 and up. (Often way up, as much as $10 per can.)

We've rounded up everything you need to know about what makes San Marzano tomatoes special, when to use them, and whether they're really worth the extra money.

What Are San Marzano Tomatoes?

Named for the Italian town of San Marzano sul Sarno where this particular variety of tomato was first cultivated, this tomato variety has historically been grown in a particular part of Italy called Sarnese Nocerino. The region, in the Campania region of sunny southern Italy, sits between Naples and Salerno and has ideal growing conditions: fertile volcanic soil, a Mediterranean microclimate, and a high water table.

Meaty and oval in shape, they are a varietal of plum (or Roma) tomato that's slightly longer and smaller, with lower water and seed contents and less acidity.

What Makes San Marzanos So Special?

"True” San Marzanos (more on that later) are grown in Sarnese-Nocerino, near Mount Vesuvius. The naturally volcanic soil of the Campania region of southern Italy is high in potassium and phosphorous, which yields a unique balance of acidity and sweetness.

Just as a wine’s unique characteristics are a direct result of the terroir in which its grapes were grown, the distinctive tastes and textures of this tomato are products of its famed volcanic landscape. This makes them a gold standard for chefs and home cooks alike for making pasta and pizza sauces—and for using as the base for soups and stews.

Can San Marzano Tomatoes Be Grown in the U.S.?

While true San Marzanos can only come from the Agro Sarnese-Nocerino region of Italy, the same variety of tomato can be grown elsewhere—including in the U.S. In recent years, more and more American brands have begun producing the crop domestically, particularly in California.

So how are Italian San Marzanos different from those grown in the United States? The results vary by producer, of course, but generally, the ones hailing from Italy tend to be sweeter and richer than their domestic counterparts, which are usually a little more acidic and more heavily salted.

Why Are San Marzano Tomatoes So Expensive?

Because true San Marzanos have to be imported from Italy from a very specific region, their demand—and cost—is relatively higher than for other canned tomatoes.

To officially certify San Marzanos, producers must meet certain criteria by the Italian government-approved regulators or consortium, known as consorzio, earning an official Protected Designation of Origin (PDO, or DOP in Italian) seal. This designation defines where and how foods are produced and is the same one the European Union uses to certify Parmigiano-Reggiano and Champagne.

While you can sometimes find true San Marzanos priced as low as $5, $10 per can is not uncommon. So if you see them on sale, it’s smart to stock up.

Are San Marzano Tomatoes Worth It?

Most experts agree that the sweeter and richer flavor of true San Marzanos makes them worth the higher cost when compared to conventional canned tomatoes (or even San Marzano tomatoes that are grown in the U.S., Mexico, or anywhere else outside of the true place of origin).

It's ultimately up to you as to whether they are worth the splurge for your recipe. Go with your personal preference. Try a recipe you usually make with canned tomatoes and swap authentic San Marzanos in to see the difference. Also, don't discount San Marzanos grown in the U.S. They may not be the real deal but can still impart a sweet flavor similar to the original.

If you’re a fan of the San Marzano variety but aren’t keen to spend the extra money—and you have a green thumb and a sunny patch of soil—consider growing your own. The days of needing an Italian Nonna who saved her heirloom tomato seeds for you are over, since nowadays you can find San Marzano seed packets and plant starts at garden and grocery stores.

When To Use San Marzano Tomatoes

Loving San Marzanos doesn’t mean you have to use the pricier options for everything. You may want to save them for recipes where the flavor can really shine, like a simple pomodoro sauce or tomato soup.

For other dishes that call for tomatoes—say a pot of chili with beef, beans, veggies, and loads of spices—chances are you wouldn’t be able to tell the difference between the pre-diced, $1.99 cans of tomatoes and the more expensive options.

Where To Buy San Marzano Tomatoes

It’s pretty easy to find San Marzanos from Italy on most grocer’s shelves—although many stores may just carry one brand. For a larger imported and domestic selection, you’re best off visiting an Italian market or upscale or specialty grocer.

How To Make Sure You're Buying Authentic San Marzano Tomatoes

Just like Parmigiano-Reggiano and prosciutto, true San Marzano tomatoes are tightly regulated by the Italian government. But since San Marzano is a variety of tomatoes that can be grown anywhere around the world, in addition to an actual place in Italy where they were originally cultivated, seeing the words “San Marzano” on a label doesn’t mean they were grown in their namesake region in Italy.

If certified authentic, cans are given an official Denominazione d'Origine Protetta (DOP) label, which translates to "protected designation of origin." This designation defines where and how foods are produced and is the same one used to certify Kalamata olive oil and Champagne. Unfortunately, there are lots of fakes out there, which further complicates the situation. Here are the other things to look for to ensure that if you spend the money for San Marzanos, you’re getting the real deal.

• Look for a Consorzio San Marzano number stamped on the bottom of the can.
• Check for the words Pomodoro San Marzano dell’Agro Sarnese-Nocerino.
• Check for two logos on the can: a yellow and red DOP stamp and an Agro Sarnese-Nocerino Consorzio logo. Both labels must be present to be authentic.
• Make sure the tomatoes are in cans and are either sold in whole form or halved. If they’re sold diced, puréed, or in paste form, they’re not authentic.

7 Great Recipes To Make With San Marzano Tomatoes

Now that you're ready to cook with these stellar tomatoes, start with one of these favorite recipes:

• Classic Okra And Tomatoes
• Homemade Spaghetti Sauce
• Slow Cooker Bolognese
• Tortellini Soup
• Baked Ziti with Chicken
• Skillet Enchiladas Suizas
• Andouille Sausage and Smoked Chicken Gumbo