A Southern Guide To Cooking With Anchovies

Anchovies aren't exactly a classic Southern staple, but that doesn’t mean a Southern recipe can’t benefit from their salty-savory flavor. In many restaurant kitchens, chefs use anchovies to infuse their dishes with extra depth and flavor, in much the same way you might add a splash of Worcestershire sauce to your Pimento Cheese or Chicken And Sausage Gumbo. (Anchovies are a key ingredient in Worcestershire sauce.) 

Plus, you’ve likely already enjoyed anchovies without even knowing it. We sneak anchovies into quite a few of our recipes, including our Caesar Salad, which gets its signature salty, umami flavor from anchovies (6 whole fillets!).

In fact sauces and dressings are a common place we pepper anchovies in, like in our Grilled Okra-and-Pepper Skewers with Dijon Dipping Sauce, or in the dressing for our Cast-Iron Steak Salad. Anchovies are also delicious folded into butter, as we demonstrate in our Grilled Okra-and-Tomato Salad, where summer veggies are tossed in a super savory anchovy and garlic butter. 

If you’re interested in diving into the wide world of tinned fish, anchovies are a great place to start. Depending on the variety, how they’re packed, and where they're sourced, these little fish can really vary in flavor (i.e. they aren’t all overly salty or fishy). Here’s our guide to learning to love and cook with anchovies. 

How To Cook With Anchovies 

“I try to fit [anchovies] into everything that I make at home because I have discovered that they are like little superheroes, flying in to turn any dish from bland to out of this world incredible,” says chef Katie Button of La Bodega by Cúrate in Asheville, North Carolina. 

Which is all to say, you don’t have to have to love whole fillets of anchovies on top of pizza or salad to enjoy these tinned fish. Anchovies are extremely versatile and often best utilized as a secret ingredient incorporated into a meal. Although, true tinned fish lovers will eat them as a snack all on their own. 

“Their superpower is really captured when you muddle them up in a mortar and pestle, or grab some anchovy paste and add just a dollop to just about anything. It isn't about making the dish taste like anchovies; it's about unlocking the umami, which is the flavor that makes food truly delicious. Toss [anchovies] in a vinaigrette, or in a pan sauce, or with butter to coat some pasta. I encourage everyone to start experimenting with anchovies. They truly make life more delicious,” says Button. 

Another way to think about anchovies is a bit like how you think of Worcestershire sauce or fish sauce. Although not exactly the same, anchovies can function similarly in recipes.

"Anchovies wouldn’t necessarily be a straight substitute for Worcestershire sauce, but they definitely fall in the same category with soy, Worcestershire, and fish sauce, so if you’re cooking a dish and wanting to add some salt, umami, and depth, anchovies could be the answer," says chef Amarys Herndon of Palm&Pine in New Orleans.

How To Buy Anchovies

We are in the golden age of tinned fish. There are so many artisan companies available in stores and online that are producing high-quality anchovies, including American brands like Fishwife.

There are also plenty of European brands at your fingertips too, like Ortiz from Spain. Before you grab any old tin off the grocery store shelf, or place your online order, you should learn what to look for, as not all jars or tins are created equal. 

“When sourcing anchovies, you want them to be packed in olive oil or neutral oil with vinegar. You also will get what you pay for, so don’t be afraid to spend $15-20 dollars on a great product,” says executive chef Vinson Petrillo of Zero George in Charleston, South Carolina.

You’ve also likely seen anchovies sold as a paste in a tube. For those for whom working with anchovies fillets makes them a little squeamish, this a great product to keep on hand. It allows you to get all the flavor of anchovies without having to do any chopping. Blended into sauces, stocks, and dressings, no one will ever know there are anchovies included. 

But as Petrillo also points out, “Many people think anchovies are "fishy" or too salty, but finding the quality ones will absolutely change your mind.” 

Add Anchovies to These Southern Recipes

Here are a few of our favorite classic Southern recipes that we think could benefit from a little anchovy folded in. 

Heirloom Tomato Pie: Tomatoes and anchovies are a beautiful match. The tinned fish helps bring out the natural savoriness of fresh, in-season heirloom tomatoes. 

Classic Deviled Eggs: We keep our classic recipe simple on purpose, but a little anchovy paste folded into the yolks is a great way to add extra flavor to the filling. 

Herbed Buttermilk Ranch Dressing: Tangy and zesty, the only thing this homemade ranch is missing is a little anchovy for an extra savory dressing. 

Sausage Gravy: Much the same way you might add a splash of soy sauce or Worcestershire sauce to your gravy, we think a few anchovies can provide added depth to your next batch. 

Soup Beans: Anchovies will take the already savory pot likker from these beans to the next level.