Sinigang Poke

1. Combine salmon, sesame oil, ginger and makrut lime leaves (or zest) in a medium bowl. Refrigerate, stirring once, for 30 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, position rack in upper third of oven and preheat broiler to high. Place green peppers on a baking sheet and broil, turning once, until the skins are blistered on all sides, about 6 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Let steam for 5 minutes. Remove skin and seeds and coarsely chop the peppers. Set aside.

3. Whisk tamarind concentrate, citric acid (or lime juice), fish sauce, calamansi (or lemon) juice, Thai chiles and ground pepper in a small bowl until smooth. Massage the mixture into the chilled salmon. Let stand for 5 minutes.

4. Combine tomatoes, chili oil and 1/4 teaspoon salt in a medium bowl. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the salmon mixture to the bowl with the tomatoes (discard the tamarind marinade). Stir in red onion, scallion whites and the roasted peppers. Serve the poke in lettuce leaves and sprinkle with furikake, scallion greens and flaky salt, if desired.

Tips

Fish sauce is the ultimate umami sauce. Seek out one made with just anchovy, salt and water for the best flavor.

A tart and floral relative of the kumquat, calamansi is the predominant citrus used in Filipino cooking. Look for the juice bottled or frozen. Lime or lemon juice can be substituted.

Filipinos' go-to souring agent is tamarind. This tropical tree produces a sour-sweet fruit in a brown pod, with edible pulp. It's often sold in concentrate or pulp form. You can make your own "concentrate" by mixing 1/4 cup pulp and 1 cup hot water in a medium bowl. Let stand for 20 minutes. Break up the paste and mix it with the water with a fork. Pass the mixture through a fine sieve set over a bowl, pressing against the solids and scraping the underside of it to collect as much of the pulp as possible. Discard solids.