Want to Make a Better Manhattan? Start With These Whiskies

A rye Manhattan and bourbon Manhattan bring different flavors to the table.

Manhattan Cocktail
Photo:

Antonis Achilleos / Food Styling by Chelsea Zimmer / Prop Styling by Thom Driver

For such a simple cocktail, the Manhattan inspires as much hand-wringing as any classic in the canon. Much of this is likely because of how many variations there are, even when sticking to the standard recipe of two parts whiskey, one part sweet vermouth, and a few dashes of bitters. Indeed, because there are only three main ingredients (in addition to the garnish, which also catalyzes heated debate…but that’s an entirely different discussion for an entirely different article), the selection of each of them has the potential to result in a drink that’s significantly different from one that utilizes other components.

Since this piece is all about the whiskey, however, it’s important to have a baseline against which those spirits will play. For the vermouth, let’s assume that you’re using (or your bartender is using) Carpano Antica Formula, which lends a sweet, almost root beer-ish spiciness to the cocktail. And for the bitters, let’s stick with the omnipresent-for-good-reason Angostura, whose woodsy spice notes are beloved.

What, then, should you choose for the whiskey, which is responsible for around two-thirds of the volume of the cocktail?

Rye is the classic selection, since its inherent spiciness tends to play well against the sweetness of the vermouth. It also is a historically accurate one, if you’re the kind of person who prefers to stick with cocktail orthodoxy. According to most sources, the Manhattan’s origins date back to the 1870s, when it was first crafted, and the early 1880s, when it first appeared in print. And while many early iterations of the recipe simply call for whiskey — as opposed to rye whiskey specifically — it’s generally assumed that that’s exactly what was typically used in practice.

Today, the rye whiskey market is exploding, and Manhattan fans have a huge range of options. Old Overholt is always a good call, as are other standout brands like Baltimore-based Sagamore Spirit, High West from Utah, WhistlePig from Vermont, Milam & Greene from Texas, Tattersall’s Bonded Rye from Wisconsin, Washington State’s Wildwood Spirits Co.’s Rendition five-year rye, and Michter’s from Kentucky. And don’t forget Canadian whisky, which generally has a good deal of rye in it. Alberta Premium, Crown Royal, and Pendleton are all excellent choices, too.

If rye is too spicy for your taste, consider a high-rye bourbon, which tempers the sweetness of the corn-based spirit. In this category, whiskeys like Old Grand-Dad and Basil Hayden’s are reliably excellent options, as are high-rye expressions from Four Roses, Redemption, Southern Star, and New Riff. Bardstown bourbon Company’s Origin Series Kentucky straight bourbon leverages 36% rye to create a stellar sipper and cocktail component, too. All of these tend to make Manhattans with a bit more sweetness than their rye-whiskey counterparts, but that also have a subtle sizzle of spice: A perfect middle ground.

Classic bourbon Manhattans are excellent as well. Some people add an additional dash of bitters so that the sweetness doesn’t dominate, whereas others keep the recipe as-is in order to allow the whiskey to shine — it’s a very personal decision. Elijah Craig makes a terrific one, as do Russell’s Reserve, Resurgent, Old Forester, and Filibuster Distillery, whose five-year bottled in bond is worth looking for. And wheated bourbons tend to be sweeter still; Maker’s Mark (both the classic and the Maker’s 46), Old Elk’s wheated bourbon, and Wilderness Trail all make for lovely, velvety Manhattans that are hard to resist.

And if you’re looking for a smokier Manhattan, consider a whiskey that brings that character to the proverbial table itself, which means you won’t need to break out the smoker. Wild Turkey’s Longbranch, which is filtered through mesquite charcoal, lends its Manhattan a subtle wisp of smoke that makes for a cocktail perfectly suited to the cold weather. And, let’s be honest, the warm weather, too.

It’s also important to consider the proof of the whiskey. Since you’ll be stirring it with ice (please, please don’t shake your Manhattan) and therefore diluting it a bit, a somewhat higher-proof bottle should be considered, since it won’t be too weak by the time you take that first sip. Just be careful with barrel-proof whiskeys, which, even diluted, run the risk of overwhelming the other components in the cocktail. If you do choose a particularly high-octane whiskey for your Manhattan, you might consider drinking it on the rocks (or, preferably, over a single large rock), which will allow the proverbial fire to be extinguished more and more with each sip.

As always, however, these matters of personal cocktail preference can best be approached by tasting as many different iterations as possible (not in one sitting, of course). The range of choices for a cocktail with just three ingredients is close to infinite. Discovering which whiskey you prefer in it will go a long way toward making your savoring of them that much more joyous.

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