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Food & Wine / Sabrina Tan
Italian drinking culture has fully infiltrated the United States. From bright and approachable pre-dinner spritzes, to countless riffs on the classic Negroni, and complex amaro-forward cocktails, Italian liqueurs have found a welcome home in every corner of our bars and restaurants.
The proliferation of bright red bitter liqueurs and amari (plural of amaro, the Italian word for “bitter”) can be attributed to a few factors, but the biggest reason is the meteoric rise of the Aperol Spritz.
“What helped spread the culture was the popularity of the Spritz,” says Rudi Carraro, global brand ambassador and educator for Gruppo Montenegro, the parent company of both Select Aperitivo and Amaro Montenegro. “There was very little knowledge of Italian products in the industry,” he says. “All of a sudden, you have a full page on the menu of amaro and aperitivo.”
Amari and red aperitivi are often grouped under the catch-all term “bitter liqueur.” Though there are clear similarities, they each hold distinct roles in Italian drinking culture.
“Americans sometimes misunderstand the timing, purpose, and cultural significance of aperitivo and amaro in Italian drinking culture,” says Antonio Ferrara, bar manager at Aman Venice. “Understanding these nuances can enhance the appreciation and enjoyment of both aperitivo liqueurs and amari, bringing a more authentic Italian experience to American drinkers.”
Amaro and red aperitivo liqueurs: the same, but different
“We can start by saying [that] by law they are the same thing,” says Carraro.
The European Union groups all bitter herbal liqueurs together as long as they are above 15% ABV and have a predominantly bitter flavor. “Legally, Select Aperitivo (a bright red bitter liqueur) is an amaro,” he says.
There are other overlapping attributes as well.
“The tradition of Italian liqueurs is very broad and the nuances between one liqueur and another are, in many cases, truly subtle,” says Guiseppe “Peppe” Doria, owner and bar manager of Volare in Bologna. “[Red] bitters and Amari definitely have a lot in common.”
Both red aperitivo liqueurs and amari are characterized by their bitterness. The degree of bitterness can vary, but it is a defining feature of both types.
“Both have complex herbal profiles, resulting from the blend of multiple botanicals,” says Ferrara. “This complexity gives them their distinctive, layered tastes. While the balance of sweetness varies, both aperitivo liqueurs and some amari include sweet elements to balance the bitterness.”
Although every bottle has their own bespoke, often top-secret recipe, the production process is broadly the same across the wider category.
“Both have complex herbal profiles, resulting from the blend of multiple botanicals. This complexity gives them their distinctive, layered tastes. While the balance of sweetness varies, both aperitivo liqueurs and some amari include sweet elements to balance the bitterness.” — Antonio Ferrara, bar manager, Aman Venice
To make a bitter herbal liqueur, a neutral base spirit is infused with herbs, roots, and other botanicals before being sweetened, proofed down to between 15% and 40% ABV, and then often colored. Common ingredients include gentian root, rhubarb, wormwood, citrus peels, and various aromatic herbs. Spices like cinnamon, cardamom, and star anise, as well as other flavorings such as vanilla and mint, can also be found in both red aperitivi and amari.
“In Italy, we are very based in tradition,” says Carraro. “It’s rooted in the Italian way of thinking.”
This reverence for, and adherence to tradition is on full display when taking a closer look at the culture surrounding Italy’s myriad bitter liqueurs.
Despite the many similarities, nobody in Italy would tell you that a red aperitivo liqueur and amaro are one and the same.
“The Italian public does not consider aperitivo and amaro to be the same thing,” says Doria. Essentially, the difference comes down to when each is consumed, and the cultural setting in which they are enjoyed.
Red aperitivo liqueurs
Between the Negroni Sbagliato’s viral moment and the dominance of the Spritz, aperitivo beverages have been hard to ignore. To Americans, it may seem like they’re en vogue, but they have long been an integral part of Italy's culinary and cultural fabric.
Red Aperitivo Liqueurs Fast Facts
- Bright orange or red color
- Lighter, more bittersweet flavor profile
- Often lower in alcohol than other amari: from 11-25% ABV
- Enjoyed in a spritz or cocktail before a meal
“In Italy, red bitter aperitivi such as Select, and others play a significant role in the culinary and drinking culture, particularly in the tradition of the aperitivo,” says Ferrara.
Aperitivo is the Italian pre-dinner ritual of socializing over light drinks and small bites. It can be a daily routine for many Italians or a special occasion to meet up with friends. “It is common in bars and cafes, especially in cities like Venice where the aperitivo culture is particularly strong,” Ferrara continues.
Bitter liqueurs like Campari, Select, and Aperol are believed to stimulate the appetite due to their pronounced bitter flavor. The bitterness is balanced by a strong citrusy character and a syrupy sweetness. Generally, aperitivo liqueurs are bright red or orange and clock in at around 11-25% ABV. They are typically mixed with sparkling water, vermouth, and prosecco into refreshing cocktails, most notably the Americano, the Sbagliato, and of course, the Spritz.
These vibrant, effervescent drinks pair perfectly with the olives, nuts, cheeses, cured meats, and cicchetti (small plates of food) often served at aperitivo hour.
Amaro
While their brightly colored siblings took center stage, amaro found its way into American bars through the back door — often as bartender welcome shots (a “bartender’s handshake”) of Fernet Branca or M&M shots (half mezcal, half Amaro Montenegro). From there, amaro became a key ingredient in many modern classic cocktails like the Paper Plane and Black Manhattan, quickly spreading through the cocktail scene.
Amaro Fast Facts
- Dark brown color
- Robust and bitter, complex flavor profiles
- Often bottled between 16-40% ABV
- Enjoyed after a meal on its own or in a cocktail
In Italy, amaro serves an almost mirrored function to aperitivo liqueurs. “These herbal liqueurs, known for their bitter and complex flavors, are traditionally consumed after meals to aid digestion and bring a meal to a satisfying close,” says Ferrara.
Traditionally, amari were made by monks and pharmacists as cure-all elixirs. Herbs, roots, barks, and other botanicals with medicinal qualities were macerated and infused into a spirit to create a concoction that could treat a variety of ailments, particularly those related to digestion. Due to the differences in the availability of botanicals, many distinct regional styles of amaro exist throughout Italy, each with its own unique flavors.
In contrast to the bright, bittersweet profile of their ruby-hued siblings, amaro has a richer, deeper complexity.
“They tend to be more robust and bitter, often with a higher alcohol content and more complex flavor profiles,” says Ferrara.
The spectrum of amari runs from more approachable and light liqueurs like Amaro Montenegro, all the way to bottles with intense herbal and medicinal notes like Fernet Branca. Amari are also usually bottled at a higher ABV, usually between 16-40%.
Amari are most commonly served neat or on the rocks to fully appreciate the complexity and depth of flavor. “Some people prefer them slightly chilled, while others enjoy them at room temperature,” says Ferrara.
The differences between red aperitivo and amaro may seem minute, but understanding these nuances is important for anyone who cares about Italian cuisine and beverages.
“It is certainly a very large world and can create confusion, it also creates it in Italy despite the tradition in consumer choices,” says Doria. “Learning about the various liqueurs can certainly help the consumer, or in some cases, the bartender, to use the products better and to consciously choose what to drink.”