Chef Mutsuko Soma’s Pork Tenderloin Katsu Is a Tribute to Her Family’s Sunday Dinners

These crisp pork cutlets are a winning take on a classic Japanese recipe.

Pork Tenderloin Katsu with Kabocha Salad
Photo:

Victor Protasio / Food Styling by Margaret Monroe Dickey / Prop Styling by Christina Daley

Active Time:
35 mins
Total Time:
1 hr 20 mins
Yield:
4 servings

This version of pork katsu, the popular Japanese panko-crusted and fried cutlet, is from 2019 F&W Best New Chef Mutsuko Soma of Kamonegi restaurant in Seattle.

“When I was growing up in Japan, pork loin was really cheap! So my family would make a lot of pork katsu on Sundays and then we would eat it throughout the week,” Soma says. “It’s the perfect school lunch, and it’s super-tasty cold. (It makes for a great sandwich.) These days, I like to pair it with a kabocha salad; the cool, sweet squash goes well with the hot, crispy katsu.”

The hot and crispy pork katsu is served alongside creamy squash salad and umami-packed basil-miso sauce.

Frequently asked questions

How do I reheat pork katsu?

You can reheat pork katsu by placing the cooked pieces on foil-lined, lightly greased sheet trays and heating them at 375°F until warmed through.  

What do I serve with katsu?

Building a star-studded side dish lineup around pork katsu is fairly simple. Along with Soma’s creamy kabocha squash salad, these fried cutlets go great with steamed rice, pickled vegetables, potato salad, or soba noodles.

Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen

Katsu sauce, a sweet and savory condiment, for pork katsu, is available at most Asian grocery stores or online at bokksumarket.com.

The sweetness and velvety-yet-firm texture of kabocha squash is great for both roasting and boiling as it softens without becoming watery or mushy. For the salad, peel off the tough outer skin of the kabocha squash, leaving the lighter green skin. If the squash is hard to peel, microwave the whole squash for 2 to 3 minutes to soften.

Cooking techniques

Batch-frying pork cutlets ensures the oil stays at the right temperature, resulting in crispier exteriors and perfectly cooked interiors.

Suggested pairing

A vibrant and citrusy dry sparkling wine like a NV Chandon Brut pairs well with the herbaceous basil miso sauce lifting up the heavier flavors in the pork katsu and creamy squash salad. 

Make ahead 

You can store basil-miso sauce for up to 2 days in an airtight container in the refrigerator.

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Ingredients

Basil-miso sauce

  • 1 cup katsu sauce

  • 1/2 cup lightly packed fresh basil leaves or shiso leaves

  • 2 tablespoons white miso

  • 1 tablespoon white sesame seeds, lightly toasted

  • 1 tablespoon granulated sugar

Kabocha squash salad

  • 6 cups kabocha squash (from 1 medium squash), peeled and cubed (1 1/2-inch pieces)

  • 1 cup red onion, thinly sliced

  • 1/4 cup mayonnaise

  • 1 tablespoon light brown sugar

  • 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

  • 1/4 teaspoon black pepper

Katsu

  • 1 (1-pound) pork tenderloin

  • 1 cup all-purpose flour (about 4 1/4 ounces)

  • 2 large eggs, beaten

  • 2 cups panko

  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

  • 1/2 teaspoon black pepper

  • 1 cup neutral cooking oil

Directions

Make the basil-miso sauce

  1. Combine katsu sauce, basil, miso, sesame seeds, and granulated sugar in a food processor, and process until mostly smooth, about 30 seconds. Set aside.

Make the squash salad

  1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over medium-high. Add squash, and boil until tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain and let cool completely, about 30 minutes. Stir together onion, mayonnaise, brown sugar, salt, and pepper in a large bowl. Stir in squash until evenly coated. Season with additional salt to taste. Set aside.

Make the katsu

  1. Cut pork crosswise into 4 (4-ounce) pieces. Working with one piece at a time, place pork between two sheets of plastic wrap. Using a meat mallet, pound until pork piece is 1/2 inch thick. Repeat with remaining pork pieces. Place flour, eggs, and panko in three shallow bowls. Season pork piece with salt and pepper, then dredge in flour, shaking off excess. Dip pork in egg, and dredge in panko, pressing gently to help panko adhere; transfer pork to a plate. Repeat process with remaining pork pieces.

  2. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium. Working in two batches, fry pork until golden brown, crispy, and cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer katsu to a paper towel–lined baking sheet. Sprinkle with salt to taste. Slice katsu, and serve with basil-miso sauce and squash salad.

Originally appeared in Food & Wine magazine, October 2023

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