Potato Puree

Sea Urchin and Crab Fondue — Photo:
CEDRIC ANGELES

Active Time:

30 mins

Total Time:

1 hr 15 mins

Servings:

Tom Colicchio pairs briny seafood with a rich puree of butter and potatoes for a dish that’s both fresh and luxurious. Colicchio created the dish in the early 1990s while he was executive chef at Mondrian in New York City. Danny Meyer, the then founder of Union Square Cafe tasted Colicchio's uni "fondue" dish and knew the two had to work together. Just a few years later, they co-founded one of New York's most renowned restaurants, Gramercy Tavern.

In it, the sea urchin’s fresh, umami taste mingles with the creamy, melt-in-your-mouth texture from the warm, satiny potato puree. Lump crabmeat sweetens the experience.

Frequently Asked Questions

What are sea urchin tongues?

The buttery, golden-orange roe beneath the spiny shells of sea urchin, called tongues, have a fresh, sealike taste and are melt-in-your-mouth tender. You can purchase sea urchin fresh at some seafood markets, depending on location, or you can order them online at soposeafood.com.
What type of dry white wine should I use?

We suggest using a similar wine to cook with as you would serve with the dish. In this case, we recommend cooking with a Chardonnay.

Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen

When warming the crabmeat, swirl it in the pan with the butter, and stir gently to prevent the meat from breaking into small pieces.

Suggested pairing

Pair this fondue with a textured, citrusy Chardonnay, such as Morgen Long Willamette Valley.

Make ahead

The potato puree can be made ahead through step 2 and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to three days. Reheat gently in a small saucepan over low heat, whisking constantly.

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Ingredients

Potato Puree

4 (6-ounce) Yukon Gold potatoes
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt plus more to taste
3/4 cup heavy cream
10 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cubed
1/4 teaspoon black pepper

Sea Urchin and Crab

3/4 cup water
1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, softened and cut into pieces, divided
2 medium shallots, finely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
1/4 cup dry white wine
8 ounces fresh jumbo lump crabmeat, drained and picked over
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives, plus more for garnish
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice, plus more to taste
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
1/8 teaspoon black pepper
12 sea urchin tongues (about 4 1/2 ounces)

Directions

Make the potato puree

Place potatoes in a medium pot. Add water to cover by 1 inch; season generously with salt. Bring to a boil over medium-high; boil until tender, 25 to 30 minutes. Drain potatoes; let stand until cool enough to handle, about 10 minutes. Peel potatoes.
Combine potatoes, cream, butter, salt, and pepper in a food processor. Process until smooth, about 1 minute. Transfer mixture to a medium saucepan. Cook over medium, whisking constantly, until potatoes are warmed through and have a thick, smooth consistency, about 3 minutes. Season with additional salt to taste. Remove from heat; cover and keep warm.

Make the sea urchin and crab

Bring 3/4 cup water to a simmer over medium. Gradually whisk in 1/2 cup butter, 1 tablespoon at a time, until emulsified, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat; cover and keep warm.
Melt remaining 1 tablespoon butter in a medium saucepan over medium-low. Add shallots, and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent, 2 to 3 minutes. Add wine; cook until reduced by half, about 1 minute. Whisk in reserved butter mixture. Add crabmeat, and cook, swirling pan and gently stirring continuously, until warmed through, about 2 minutes. Stir in chives, lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Season with additional lemon juice and salt to taste. Add sea urchin; cover and remove from heat. Let stand, undisturbed, until sea urchin is warmed through, 1 to 2 minutes.
To assemble, divide potato puree evenly among 6 bowls. Spoon 1/3 cup sea urchin–crab mixture over potato puree in each bowl. Add additional lemon juice to taste. Garnish with chives, and serve.

Originally appeared in Food & Wine magazine, July 2024