You Should Never Grill Burgers, Says This Celebrity Chef

“I had an epiphany that I don’t know if everyone shares,” confesses celebrity and Michelin star-winning chef David Chang on his podcast, The Dave Chang Show. “I actually think the grill is a horrible thing for a hamburger.”

Now, I know what you're thinking. The grill? Horrible for hamburgers? That is just about the only thing I use my grill for. From weekend grill masters to those that only break out the grill for the big food holidays or occasional backyard barbecue, there is no denying that for almost all Americans, grills are synonymous with hamburgers. Cookouts and campfires, hamburgers and grills—these are the quintessential summer sights and smells.

“[The grill] is amazing for literally everything else,” Chang continues. “But it is not good for cooking burgers.” These words might be heresy for home cooks everywhere, but Chang also recognizes the unpopular nature of what he is saying.

“I think that this viewpoint could get me in trouble,” says the founder of the restaurant group Momofuku (the brand behind our favorite chili crisp). Still, Chang, along with Chris Ying—co-host of the podcast—explain their reasons during a conversation related to grilling dos and don’ts. Here’s what they have to say about the controversial take.

Why David Chang Says You Should Never Grill Burgers

Firstly, the two friends and co-hosts discuss their favorite types of burgers and agree on the fact that the smash burger is the superior choice. In discussing the increasing popularity of smash burgers, they also explain that the grill isn’t really the right tool to use for this kind of hamburger. But why choose the smash burger in the first? What is behind the delicious difference between a smash burger and a traditional burger? 

The Maillard Reaction and Smash Burgers

One reason smash burgers taste so good is because of a process known as the Maillard reaction. In layman's terms, it describes the chemical reaction between food and a heat source that creates browning on the food's surface.

“You are going to get more Maillard on the pan,” says Ying. Smashing a burger while it cooks allows for more of the surface area to be exposed to heat, resulting in more browning and flavor. The delicious, crispy crust that we all look for on a burger will be even bigger when smashed.

Sure, you can get a griddle attachment for your grill, but by doing this, you are turning your grill into a very inconvenient stove with little control over the heat, explains Ying. But cooking a smash burger directly on the grates of a grill isn't an option, either. While a thicker, larger burger may stay together on the grill, a smash burger will struggle to keep its shape and form.

Smoke and Grease

But what about big, juicy hamburgers—certainly they benefit from a grill, no? Chang and Ying would, again, not go so far. 

“Ostensibly, the grill is great for imbuing smoke and char flavors, wood flavors, charcoal flavors”, says Chris Ying. And this is why we love it–for imparting flavor. Smokiness can transform a dish from something ordinary to extraordinary. However, Chang and Ying are quick to point out the differences in smoke when cooking over fire. 

“There's different kinds of smoky flavor, and people think that [the] black smoke that's pouring up from the fire as the fat and grease is dripping down onto the charcoal or gas grate” is the same flavor as the light clean, clear smoke flavor of wood, says Ying. But it’s not.

If you want to imbue your burger with the kind of smoky flavor that makes foods like barbecue brisket so irresistible, the process would be far slower. You would need to cook a burger for 12 hours over charcoal, Chang explains, to get that true smoky taste. 

The struggle to control temperature is another downside to cooking hamburgers on grills, in part due to grease. 

“A juicy burger is going to turn into a guaranteed grease fire,” says Chang.

“Let's paint a picture of the summertime cookout,” muses Ying. “You’ve got 15 people and you're trying to make a bunch of burgers on the grill, [and] you cannot manage that grease fire. You can't just simply move the burger to another part of the grill because there's no other part of the grill available.”

Chang thinks this event—the summer cookout—is what we really love, not necessarily the burgers. 

“I don’t think I’ve ever had a transcendent backyard grilled burger experience,” he says. “I think it's an experience where you try to convince yourself it’s better than it actually is. It’s the nostalgia, it's the smells, it’s your friends. But if you just take it out of the context, it’s not very good."

How Our Allrecipes Allstars Cook Burgers

While David Chang may think grilling hamburgers is overrated, some of our Allrecipes Allstars beg to differ. Quite a few prefer the method of grilling hamburgers.

We polled over 30 of our Allstars on their favorite way to cook burgers, and the consensus was varied, but there was definitely one clear winner: the grill. Allstar Dakari Akorede prefers his hamburgers over hot coals and fire. Allstar France Cevallos also loves a grill and Allstar Kelly Goralski says, “There’s no better burger in the summertime than one made over the campfire or on a charcoal grill.”

While many Allstars love a grilled burger, others endorsed Chang and Ying's method. Allstar Rosanne Robinson says she's cooked burgers “on the stove smashed down, even before it was cool to do.”

Then What Should You Be Cooking on the Grill?

So, if Chang (and Ying) say save your burgers for the stovetop, then what should you be grilling? Hot dogs for one—Chang and Ying both agree on this. But furthermore, “grilling is meant for hunks of meat,” says Chang. “It’s great for chicken, chicken thighs, spatchcocked chicken, T-bones, pork, lamb chops, [or] seafood.” 

The hosts also mention summer squashes and eggplant as great foods for the grill, but we all know the champion of all vegetables cooked on the grill is corn.

Whether you continue to grill your hamburgers or follow the advice of Chris Ying and David Chang and opt for a griddle or cast-iron pan, we can all agree there are multiple ways to cook a juicy hamburger. We think experimentation in the kitchen is is not only great, but the heart of cooking. Preparing, testing, taking notes, and trying again. The results are sure to be delicious.