Mangonada

Bright orange, swirled with red, and topped with mango chunks, the Mangonada is a summertime staple in Mexican communities. If you're not familiar with it, imagine a clear Starbucks cup coated in liquid chamoy — a savory condiment made from pickled stone fruit — and filled to the brim with alternating rounds of mango sorbet, lime, and Tajín, a lime-flavored chili powder. The cup is topped with fresh diced mango and a tamarind paste-wrapped straw that's rolled in chili powder. Sweet, tart, and savory, the dessert offers an umami punch that's supremely refreshing.

"It reminds me of seeing my mom sell fruit and Mangonadas in front of schools," says Cesar Pantoja, chef at Raíz in Mexico City's ritzy Polanco. "Those humble beginnings were the root of my love for food. We turned it into an activity that I genuinely loved because we got quality time alone to talk, and we were preparing food for others to enjoy."

The combination of lime, salt, and Tajín is ubiquitous in Mexican food, seasoning everything from pozole to jicama. Modest businesses, like the one Pantoja describes, rely on its use. Vendors selling fruit topped with this inexpensive blend of flavors can be found across Mexico and in U.S. cities with large Latinx populations.

And with good reason. A 2011 study in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences discovered new sugar receptors on the tongue that are only activated when salt is present, which explains why the Mangonada's complementary flavor profile is so craveable: The salty chamoy enhances the sweet flavor of the mango sorbet, rather than overpowering it.

The dessert's origins are unclear, though it dates back to long before the Instagram food craze, despite being so photogenic and, well, 'grammable. According to Marco Rodriguez, the vice president of Dulcelandia, which is the biggest importer of Mexican candies to the Midwest, the Mangonada's growing popularity in the U.S. could be attributed to the surge in paleteria openings around 2010.

While you'll find Mangonadas abundant throughout Mexico, a plane trip isn't necessary — your local Mexican grocer will likely have all ingredients readily available to make the drink at home. — Ximena N. Beltran Quan Kiu

Frequently Asked Questions

What is chamoy?

Chamoy is a condiment made from a combination of pickled fruits (such as mangoes, plums, or apricots) as well as lime juice and sugar.

When should I serve a Mangonada?

"How you serve it and present it is how you classify it," says says Cesar Pantoja, chef at Raíz in Mexico City's ritzy Polanco. "If served as a post-meal item in a restaurant, it's a dessert. If bought on a hot day as a drink, it's a juice. If it's a little thicker and more substantial, then it's a smoothie. Add a little tequila, now it's a cocktail. It's really meant to be enjoyed as you wish."

Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen

You don't need to purchase fresh mangos and spend time cutting them up in the kitchen. Instead, head to the frozen aisle in your local grocery store and grab a bag of frozen mango chunks. At home, blend it with some mango juice or even passion fruit juice, for added flavor.