![Overhead view of pork paste rice paper rolls](https://cdn.statically.io/img/www.seriouseats.com/thmb/jEaaVJpI_UjVZtH8Z6c9I4PCanY=/1500x0/filters:no_upscale():max_bytes(150000):strip_icc()/20231204-SEA-PorkPasteRicePaperRolls-VyTran-59-d677d06be638468ea11817a6f660e122.jpg)
Serious Eats / Vy Tran
Why It Works
- Using ground pork that is 20 to 25% fat prevents the meat from drying out when grilled.
- Baking powder helps the pork paste rise and creates its signature spongy texture during cooking.
The appeal of grilled meat that’s been licked by open flames and charred to perfection is undeniable. Vietnamese love what I affectionately refer to as grilled “meats-on-a-stick.” There’s nem lụi huế (huế lemongrass pork skewers), nem nướng (grilled pork meatballs on a bamboo skewer), and this one, nem nướng cuốn (grilled pork paste rolls), which is lesser known in the US but just as popular as the others in Vietnam.
![Overhead view of hands dipping rolls into peanut sauce](https://www.seriouseats.com/thmb/EHYzgCxQGf9vfle5UJewmzigUGs=/1500x0/filters:no_upscale():max_bytes(150000):strip_icc()/20231204-SEA-PorkPasteRicePaperRolls-VyTran-60-38ffe9e3531d41739c4a5d0a7b7d3710.jpg)
Serious Eats / Vy Tran
Nem nướng cuốn is a specialty of Nha Trang, the capital of Khánh Hòa province, located on Vietnam’s south-central coast. The fresh rice paper rolls are filled with their namesake nem nướng, or grilled pork paste—a ground pork mixture that’s blended until smooth and amplified with garlic and fish sauce—as well as crispy egg roll skins, a medley of herbs, and pepped up with annatto oil and scallion oil before being tightly rolled in a thin rice paper wrapper. What sets the Nha Trang version apart from other regional variations is the bright orange dipping sauce made from a savory mixture of minced pork, peanut butter, and annatto oil.
Making the Grilled Pork Paste
Let’s deconstruct the makings of great grilled pork paste, which has similarities with forcemeats for sausages. Yes, you could purchase store-bought pork paste for grilling and filling your rolls, but the fresh flavor you can achieve by making it at home is incomparable---the potent flavors of fresh garlic, shallot, fish sauce, and black pepper bursting in every bite.
The process starts with ground pork that is at least 20 to 25 percent fat, enough to ensure a juicy result even after cooking it fully through in the dry heat of a grill. To get a paste-like consistency, I find it easiest to grind the pork in a food processor, which only takes about one minute. It's necessary to pop it in a freezer at this point to chill it well, since warmth can cause the fat to melt and smear, leading to a grainy result. The risk for this is highest when the paste is paddled in a stand mixer to work in the flavorings and develop the proper bouncy texture of the paste, so working cold is key.
![Overhead view of pork paste in stand mixer](https://www.seriouseats.com/thmb/iPO67zGsScaJC7M7bnKGcHSiNtk=/1500x0/filters:no_upscale():max_bytes(150000):strip_icc()/20231204-SEA-PorkPasteRicePaperRolls-VyTran-33-0eb511455c1945268fb83665d425e750.jpg)
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But the pork paste shouldn't just be bouncy like a sausage, it should also be slightly aerated, almost spongy. To achieve this, I add baking powder to the meat mixture, though in this case not all baking powders are created equal. The best results come from a brand called Alsa, which is a French cake baking powder that does not need liquid to activate. While other brands of baking powder can be used in its place, they will not work as well.
Before cooking, the pork paste mixture is rolled into a sausage shape around a bamboo skewer, then brushed with annatto oil and cooked on a grill until slightly charred, which gives it a wonderful smoky flavor. Alternatively, the pork paste skewers can be baked, but they will of course then lack that distinct char flavor. Besides making a wonderful filling for salad rolls, the grilled pork paste also works well in vermicelli noodle bowls and bánh mì.
Signature Sauce: The Pork and Peanut Dipping Sauce
The dipping sauce that is a hallmark of this version of pork paste rice paper rolls consists of minced pork, shallot, garlic, chicken broth, peanut butter, hoisin sauce, sugar, fish sauce, annatto oil, and cornstarch as a thickening agent. The result is a rich sauce that is complex. I like mine chunky, but feel free to use a food processor to puree it if you prefer a smoother consistency.
![Overhead view of adding peanuts to a dipping sauce](https://www.seriouseats.com/thmb/YwnVmsAk3sqfX6fR2QYd_zLBsgs=/1500x0/filters:no_upscale():max_bytes(150000):strip_icc()/20231204-SEA-PorkPasteRicePaperRolls-VyTran-50-a7d9e448130b4280b3e4e91019c049de.jpg)
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Bringing It All Together: How to Eat Nem Nướng Cuốn
Vietnam’s culinary use of rice papers led to one of the country's most iconic dishes, gỏi cuốn, or salad rolls. Southern Vietnamese refer to salad rolls as fresh spring rolls—in contrast to fried spring rolls, or chả giò—while Northern Vietnamese call fresh rice paper rolls nem cuốn, which is different from the pork paste rolls for this recipe. The naming convention in Vietnam can be confusing, so knowing exactly what to order is essential. These rice paper rolls usually feature rice paper, softened in water and rolled around raw vegetables, fresh herbs, and a protein such as prawns or grilled meat, and then served with a dipping sauce.
![Overhead view of rolling rice paper](https://www.seriouseats.com/thmb/DoCKAawoXSlU59HkLEJIUpSwjcE=/1500x0/filters:no_upscale():max_bytes(150000):strip_icc()/20231204-SEA-PorkPasteRicePaperRolls-VyTran-56-bd9f483e14154290a27c3a3873ee38cf.jpg)
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Abundant amounts of fragrant Vietnamese herbs, garlic chives, and fried egg roll skins, along with the grilled pork paste, nestled in rice paper and served with sweet pork peanut dipping sauce, gives these nem nướng cuốn contrasting textures and fresh flavors quintessential to Vietnamese cuisine.
These pork paste rolls make a great standalone meal for an informal get-together with friends or an appetizer as part of a bigger feast. On weekends, I will sometimes host a wrap-and-roll party where the pork paste is grilled ahead of time and presented on a large platter along with rice papers, fried egg roll skins, fresh herbs, lettuce, pickled vegetables, and the dipping sauce. On the table, you would find communal water-dipping bowls, dinner plates large enough to hold the rice paper for the work surface, and chopsticks to pick up the fillings. The DIY nature of this wrap-and-roll party is fun because everyone can customize the filling to their liking.
![Side view of rice paper rolls](https://www.seriouseats.com/thmb/nDAONjpmbgjgrz-3ixwQgY-GU0M=/1500x0/filters:no_upscale():max_bytes(150000):strip_icc()/20231204-SEA-PorkPasteRicePaperRolls-VyTran-57-08dd6fe723524c9aac8a1e47e164c106.jpg)
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Recipe Details
Nem Nướng Cuốn (Vietnamese Grilled Pork Paste Rice Paper Rolls) Recipe
Ingredients
For the Annatto Oil:
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1/2 cup (120ml) vegetable or other neutral oil
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2 tablespoons (20g) annatto seeds (see notes)
For the Pork Paste:
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1 pound (453g) ground pork, 20 to 25% fat (see notes)
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2 tablespoons granulated sugar (about 1 ounce; 30g)
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5 cloves garlic (about 1 ounce; 25g), finely minced
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1 medium shallot (3/4 ounce; 20g), finely diced
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1 tablespoon (15ml) fish sauce
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1 tablespoon (8g) cornstarch
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1 teaspoon baking powder, preferably Alsa brand (see notes)
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1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
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2 tablespoons (30ml) Annatto Oil (from above)
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Vegetable oil, for forming sausages
For the Scallion Oil:
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1 loosely packed cup sliced scallion greens (from about 10 scallions)
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1/4 cup (60ml) vegetable or other neutral oil
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1/4 teaspoon kosher salt; for table salt use half as much by volume
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1/4 teaspoon granulated sugar
For the Pork Peanut Sauce:
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1 tablespoon (15ml) vegetable or other neutral oil
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1 medium shallot (3/4 ounce; 20g), chopped
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2 cloves garlic, minced
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2 ounces (57g) ground pork, 20 to 25% fat (see notes)
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1 1/2 cups (355ml) homemade chicken stock or store-bought low-sodium chicken broth
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1/4 cup smooth peanut butter (about 2 ounces; 60g)
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1/4 cup (60ml) hoisin sauce
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1 tablespoon granulated sugar (about 1/2 ounce; 15g)
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2 teaspoons (10ml) fish sauce
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2 tablespoons (30ml) Annatto Oil (from above)
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1 tablespoon (8g) cornstarch
For the Egg Roll Wrappers:
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20 egg roll wrappers (5-inch squares), fully thawed (see notes)
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2 cups (475ml) neutral oil (such as vegetable oil) for frying
For the Nem Nướng Cuốn:
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1 head butter lettuce, leaves seperated
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1 bunch thai basil (húng quế), leaves picked (see notes)
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1 bunch Vietnamese coriander (rau răm), leaves picked
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1 bunch perilla (tiá tô), leaves picked
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1 bunch peppermint (húng lủi) and/or fish mint (dấp cá), leaves picked
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1 bunch garlic chives, cut to 6-inch lengths
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1/2 cup (75g) roasted peanuts, chopped
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Twenty 8-inch round or square rice papers
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Pickled carrot, daikon, and leeks, for serving
Directions
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For the Annatto Oil: In a small saucepan, heat oil and annatto seeds over medium-low heat, stirring and swirling pan occasionally, until warmed through and shimmering, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and let oil cool for 15 minutes. Using a fine-mesh strainer, strain oil into a bowl or jar; discard seeds and set oil aside until ready to use.
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For the Pork Paste: In a food processor, process ground pork until it forms a smooth paste, about 1 minute. Transfer to a plastic wrap–lined plate or baking sheet, cover loosely with plastic wrap and freeze until well chilled and firm, but not fully frozen, 30 to 60 minutes.
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In a stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment, add the chilled pork paste, garlic, shallot, fish sauce, cornstarch, baking powder, pepper, and 2 tablespoons (30ml) of the prepared annatto oil. Beat mixture on low speed until combined, 1 minute. Increase speed to high and beat for another 2 minutes. Cover bowl with plastic wrap (or transfer mixture to a clean bowl and cover) and refrigerate to let flavor develop, at least 4 and up to 24 hours.
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- Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper or aluminum foil. Divide pork mixture into 10 even portions, just shy of 2 ounces (60g) each. Coat gloved or ungloved hands lightly with vegetable oil. Roll each portion of pork into a 5-inch log around the base of each bamboo skewer and place on prepared baking sheet. If mixture is too soft during shaping, divide portions onto a sheet tray and freeze briefly until firm, but not fully frozen, about 20 minutes. Once shaped refrigerate until ready to grill.
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For the Scallion Oil: In a medium bowl, combine scallions, oil, salt, and sugar. Cover and microwave until heated through and bubbling, 60 seconds. Carefully uncover and mix well; set aside until ready to use.
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For the Pork Peanut Sauce: In a small saucepan, heat oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add shallots and cook, stirring, until slightly softened, about 1 minute. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add ground pork and cook, stirring to break up the meat, until cooked through and lightly browned, about 3 minutes.
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Reduce heat to medium and add chicken broth, peanut butter, and hoisin sauce. Cook, stirring frequently, until well blended and warmed through, about 5 minutes. Add sugar, fish sauce, and 2 tablespoons (30ml) annatto oil and cook for another 2 minutes. In a small bowl, mix cornstarch with 1 tablespoon (15ml) water. Stir cornstarch mixture into sauce and cook, stirring frequently, until thickened, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a serving bowl.
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For the Egg Roll Wrappers: Set egg roll wrappers on a work surface and cover with a damp towel. Working with 1 egg roll wrapper at a time, roll into tight cigar-shaped logs.
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In a medium saucepan, heat oil over medium-high heat to 350°F (175°C). Use tongs or spider skimmer to gently transfer 5 to 6 shaped wrappers to the hot oil and fry, turning and gently separating as needed, until golden brown and crispy all over, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a paper-towel lined plate and repeat with the remaining wrappers in batches of 5 or 6 at a time; set aside until ready to serve.
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To Cook on a Grill:
For a Charcoal Grill: Light 1 chimney full of charcoal. When all charcoal is lit and covered with gray ash, pour out and arrange coals on one side of charcoal grate. Set cooking grate in place, cover grill, and preheat for 5 minutes. Clean and oil grilling grate.
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For a Gas Grill: Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and turn off other burners. (Adjust primary burner as needed to maintain grill temperature of 375 to 425℉ (190 to 220℃).
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Brush skewers with annatto oil. Set skewers on the cooler side of the grill and cook over indirect heat, turning every 2 minutes, until cooked through, 7 to 8 minutes. Move skewers to the hotter side of the grill, and cook over direct heat, turning every minute, until charred on both sides, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to platter and hold until ready to serve.
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To Cook in an Indoor Oven: Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 375°F (190℃). Brush pork paste skewers with annatto oil on both sides. Bake for 10 minutes. Remove from oven. Brush again with annatto oil and continue to bake until cooked through, about 10 minutes. Transfer to platter and hold until ready to serve.
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To Serve: Arrange lettuce, herbs, garlic chives, fried egg roll wrappers, and grilled pork paste skewers on a serving platter. Drizzle scallion oil and scatter half of chopped peanuts over the grilled pork paste skewers. Scatter remaining chopped peanuts over the pork peanut sauce and add ground chile, if desired.
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To form one roll, dip one sheet of rice paper into a wide shallow bowl of warm water, making sure rice paper is completely wet before shaking off excess water. Lay rice paper on a plate and let sit until pliable, about 30 seconds. Arrange any combination of lettuce and herbs just below the center of the rice paper.
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Remove pork paste from skewers and slice in half lengthwise. Place one slice of the grilled pork paste on top of roll fillings. Top with garlic chives and fried egg roll wrappers. Starting with the edge closest to you, carefully lift the rice paper wrapper over the filling, fold in the left and the right sides, then roll tightly to form the finished rice paper roll. Enjoy with the pork peanut dipping sauce and pickled vegetables, continuing to form rice paper rolls with your guests until fillings are used up.
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Special Equipment
Food processor, stand mixer, bamboo skewers, charcoal grill
Notes
Most packaged ground pork sold at large-scale supermarkets will not be labeled with a fat percentage, and will most likely be too lean (closer to 15% fat). You’ll have best luck finding ground pork with 20 to 25% fat at a local Asian market or butcher. If in doubt, just ask the friendly butcher behind the counter what the fat percent is in the ground pork when purchasing.
Annatto seeds are used to color foods in Vietnamese cooking. I prefer annatto seeds over pre-ground annatto powder because the color tends to be more vibrant. If you don't want to make annatto oil from scratch, you can buy it pre-made; my go-to brand is Yesheu roasted annatto oil.
Alsa baking powder is a French cake baking powder that does not need liquid to activate. It allows the pork to rise during cooking and creates a firm yet spongy texture. You can substitute American baking powder, but it does not work as well. Alsa baking powder is available online and at Asian supermarkets.
The egg roll wrappers should be wheat-based. I prefer the brand Spring Home TYJ Spring Roll Pastry, which comes in 5-inch squares. You can also use larger egg roll wrappers, but you would need to cut them to about 5 inches to fit the rolls.
Vietnamese rice paper wrappers are sold dried. They come in three styles; rice flour mixed with tapioca starch, all tapioca starch, or wrappers made from vermicelli noodles called chả giò rế. All three styles will work with this recipe, so choose the style you prefer. Rice paper wrappers can be found at most Asian grocery stores and online.
The listed fresh herbs are available at most Asian grocery stores or well stocked markets. Any combination of the listed fresh herbs that are available to you will work in this recipe.
Make-Ahead and Storage
The pork paste can be made up to 1 day ahead; shape as instructor, then refrigerate in an airtight container until ready to use. The annatto oil can be refrigerated for up to 1 month.
Nutrition Facts (per serving) | |
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2690 | Calories |
148g | Fat |
246g | Carbs |
96g | Protein |
Nutrition Facts | |
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Servings: 4 | |
Amount per serving | |
Calories | 2690 |
% Daily Value* | |
Total Fat 148g | 190% |
Saturated Fat 28g | 138% |
Cholesterol 195mg | 65% |
Sodium 4210mg | 183% |
Total Carbohydrate 246g | 89% |
Dietary Fiber 23g | 83% |
Total Sugars 22g | |
Protein 96g | |
Vitamin C 22mg | 110% |
Calcium 472mg | 36% |
Iron 16mg | 90% |
Potassium 2194mg | 47% |
*The % Daily Value (DV) tells you how much a nutrient in a food serving contributes to a daily diet. 2,000 calories a day is used for general nutrition advice. |